Audemars Piguet (AP) shrinks its innovative new perpetual calendar movement, reflecting the industry-wide shift towards more compact sizing. The scaled-down model arrives in two models to start: the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 38 mm ref. 26684 loses the controversial week-of-the-year indicator, while the Code 11:59 Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 38 mm ref. 26441 retains the pointer.

Notably, the marketing for the new 38 mm models implies a more feminine target audience, but the appeal of a mid-sized Royal Oak perpetual transcends gender.

Initial Thoughts

The march towards smaller sizes continues. Regardless of the client’s gender, it helps that Audemars Piguet has a real winner here, with a user-friendly movement that is also extremely technically interesting, contained inside the iconic and very well built Royal Oak case. Pricing is relatively reasonable as well – US$110,000 in stainless steel hardly screams “good deal” but is fair against the wider market.

The absence of a 52-week scale on the Royal Oak 38 mm models is necessitated by the narrower dial and differentiates the 38 mm from the 41 mm. Many will welcome this change given the niche nature of a week indicator, though the result is arguably less distinct from the many other sub-dial-centric perpetual calendars on the market. Also, a matching 38 mm and 41 mm pair in the same colourway would be cute, and a missed opportunity.

Compact Case

At 38 mm, this is the smallest Royal Oak perpetual calendar in the current catalogue, though there was a diminutive 33 mm ref. 25800 in the 1990s. This is built and finished to the brand’s current, very high standards. Each case and bracelet takes skilled hands several hours to finish, and impressive solidity of Royal Oak bracelets is noteworthy.

Other than the absent weekly calendar, it is not a significant departure from recent Royal Oak perpetuals, with day, date, month, leap year cycle, moon phase, and 24 hour time. The familiar Grande Tapisserie dial returns and in ice blue and rose gold. The hands and dial furniture are solid 18k gold and modestly lumed.

The Code 11:59’s dial is even more similar its larger counterpart as it retains the weekly calendar and the same stamped guilloché as the 41 mm, just in a new colour.

Like the 41 mm editions, the first 150 examples of each model will be special 150th anniversary editions, with a caseback engraving and an historical, italicised brand signature on the dial.

Perpetual

Launched just a few months ago, Audemars Piguet’s new perpetual calendar is one of the most advanced on the market, despite using the same fundamental principles as watches during the 19th century. A 48-tooth wheel is pre-programmed with the lengths of each month in the quadrennial leap year cycle. In theory, the watch will only need a correction in the year 2100, when we skip a leap year.

Unlike most perpetual calendars, which make use of pin-pushers in the case band or crown-based systems which advance every indication at once, each of the four calendar indicators on these watches is individually adjustable using the four-stage crown, without fear of damage to the mechanism.

One of the most subtle, but clever changes is the proportionately spaced date wheel numbers. Audemars Piguet redesigned the date wheel with unevenly sized teeth to account for single digit dates, which occupy less dial space than double digit ones.

Key facts and price

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 38 mm
26684ST.OO.1356ST.01 (stainless steel)
26684ST.OO.1356ST.02 (steel, 150th anniversary edition)
26684OR.OO.1356OR.01 (rose gold)
26684OR.OO.1356OR.02 (rose gold, 150th anniversary edition)

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 9.4 mm
Material: Steel or 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 7136
Functions: Hours, minutes, and perpetual calendar
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet

Limited Edition: Anniversary editions limited to 150 pieces, otherwise regular production
Availability: At AP boutiques and AP houses
Price: CHF88,000 in steel, CHF91,000 in rose gold

Code 11:59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 38 mm
Ref. 26441OR.OO.D405CR.01
Ref, 26441OR.OO.D405CR.02 (150th anniversary edition)

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 9.9 mm
Material: 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 7138
Functions: Hours, minutes, and perpetual calendar
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Alligator leather, 18k rose gold folding clasp

Limited Edition: Anniversary editions limited to 150 pieces, otherwise regular production
Availability: At AP boutiques and AP houses
Price: CHF88,000 rose gold

For more, visit audemarspiguet.com.