The recently launched 222 in steel may be the watch of the hour, but Vacheron Constantin continues to build out the Overseas line with a facelift for the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin ref. 4300V that gets new dials in burgundy and pink gold, both with pale blue accents. While the new pair are built on old bones, they remain competitive and appealing thanks to the extremely slim profile, great dials and well-appointed bracelets.

Initial thoughts

While the fad for integrated bracelet sport watches has cooled off, the genre remains remain popular and new contenders emerge every day, compelling established players to reinvent themselves. The Overseas Perpetual Calendar is definitely an established player in this segment and competitive with most of the market, at least for now.

The thin movement inside has a proven track record by virtue of its age (the basic architecture debuted in 1967). Moreover, the Overseas perpetual also deserves praise for being very good looking, especially with the new burgundy dial. The blue accents work surprisingly well against the burgundy, though less so against pink gold.

That said, the age of the movement is significant. It was easy to ignore the movement when the same was true of its peers. That is changing; Audemars Piguet overhauled the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with an all-new movement earlier this year, which features an entirely crown-set calendar. While I think the difficulty of setting perpetual calendars with pushers is exaggerated, it’s daunting to many owners.

New Face on an Old Case

Vacheron Constantin pairs the white gold case with dial that’s burgundy lacquer over a sunburst base with a colour-matched chapter ring, along with white gold hands and dial furniture. Even the moon phase disk, which is 18k white gold, receives a burgundy finish, with pinpricks of white metal shining through to form constellations.

The other is tone-on-tone – or “pink on pink” in vintage watch parlance – with golden lacquer over a solid 18k pink gold dial base, pink gold hands, and a pink gold moon phase disk.

Both dials sport striking pale-blue accents during the day, a reoccurring motif for the reference, and a similar blue glow by night from Super-LumiNova on the hands and indices.

True to its name, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is svelte at only 8.1 mm thick. That undercuts the obvious competition – the Nautilus perpetual calendar (8.42 mm) from Patek Philippe  and the recently updated Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar (9.5 mm) by Audemars Piguet – while maintaining an acceptable 50 m of water resistance.

Proportionately, it looks thinner still thanks to the large 41.5 mm case. Height aside, case and bracelet are little different from any other Overseas model. While it’s difficult to judge finishing from press images, and impossible from renders, we’ve covered other flavours of this reference before, and they held up in the metal, especially the bracelets.

The screw down is the only missing feature of note. Most else, including the soft iron movement ring (to ward off magnetism) and bracelet amenities carry over from other Overseas models. That includes tool-less extension built into the clasp, hot-swap-ability, and every single link being removable.

Both models are delivered with matching folding clasps in the same metal as the case along with two straps, one in white rubber and another rubber strap catered to the dial, burgundy for the white gold model, and dark blue for the pink gold.

Movement

The perpetual calendar mechanism is a cam-lever affair born in the 1980s (though it’s classical enough it could have just as easily hailed from the 1880s) that also powered the brand’s other perpetual calendar complications of the period. It is also traditionally high-end; the Poincon de Geneve guarantees the calendar is of high-end construction, using no wire springs and fully finished – which isn’t always the case, even at this price point.

The calendar can be set in a few minutes with a stylus: one pusher advances the day, date and month in sync, three others correct the day, month and moon individually.

The single 48-month display is slimmer and simpler than 12-month displays, though less legible. A 59-tooth moon phase disk is another limitation, which will accrue a noticeable error in less than three years. The increasingly common 135-tooth approach only errs after 122 years.

Underneath the perpetual calendar module is a familiar face, the cal. 1120 QP/1 that was originally the Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920. It was the thinnest automatic on the market when it debuted in 1967, designed to meet the needs of the big three: Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin.

While the 40 hour power reserve and 2.75 Hz beat rate are quaint today, it remains extremely slim. While not the most elegantly styled movement, it is has a distinctive and sophisticated architecture. Moreover, it is well decorated. The 22k gold rotor is a particular highlight with its well executed compass rose motif. The quartet of roller jewels supporting the rotor (one of the secrets to its small stature) can produce odd sounds, but it’s far from the harshest rotor I’ve heard.

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Ref. 4300V/220G-H151 (Burgandy dial)
Ref. 4300V/220R-H144 (Pink gold dial)

Diameter: 41.5 mm
Height: 8.10 mm
Material: 18k pink or white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 1120 QP/1
Functions: Hours, minutes, and perpetual calendar with moon phase, hours, minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 19,800 beats per hour (2.75 Hz)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: 18k gold bracelet or alligator strap, both options accompanied by a spare rubber strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Vacheron Constantin boutiques and retailers
Price: US$120,000; or CHF119,000

For more information, visit vacheron-constantin.com.