Jaquet Droz is enjoying a good run with unique, dragon-themed watches. While last month’s debut was firmly in the mould of Anglo-Saxon fantasy lore, the Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold “Dragon Mask” is inspired by the Chinese dragon.

A unique piece created at the behest of a client, like most of brand’s current repertoire, the Dragon Mask has an open-worked dial engraved and painted by hand – and set with emeralds – installed on a skeletonised, self-winding tourbillon movement.

Initial thoughts

Personalised commissions are, by definition, personal and not for everyone. This watch is over the top in its decoration, maybe even overdone to the point of kitsch, but I like it. Dragon-themed watches don’t always get the motif right – Breguet’s dragon was a little too fat – but this one is done well in its own way. The case is a little large for what it is, but the size is useful as it results in a larger canvas for the dial decoration.

And because this is a Jaquet Droz, the execution, both in terms of dial and movement, will be good quality, as is usually the case with the high-end brands owned by Swatch Group. I imagine the client who commissioned this will be pleased – except maybe for the CHF450,000 price tag, which is steep but typical for a watch like this.

A dragon in all its colours

Despite its strikingly different look, the Dragon Mask is actually a variation of the clean and modern Tourbillon Skelet. Both share the same movement and case, but the Dragon Mask has a multi-part, solid-gold dragon dial on top of the skeletonised tourbillon calibre. The result is minimal legibility, but the hands were probably intentionally designed to recede into the dial.

The dial is made of multiple components, all solid gold, but in varied colours of the metal – white, yellow, and red gold. The gold components are engraved by hand, not just on the front, but also on the reverse. Examining the watch from the back reveals a pattern, inspired by traditional Chinese cloud motifs, engraved onto the underside of the dial parts.

Cabochon-cut emeralds are then set into the dial components with a bezel setting, forming the eyes of the dragon as well as accents on the clouds. Finally the dial is painted by hand, giving it the a striking set of colours that range from red to gold.

The dial work required some 200 hours according to Jaquet Droz.

The 18k red gold case is a large 41 mm in diameter, and inside is the cal. 2625 SQ. Derived from the flying tourbillon movement developed by Blancpain, a sister company of Jaquet Droz, the cal. 2625 SQ is open worked in geometric manner. The flying tourbillon is visible on the dial at 12 o’clock, in between the dragon’s horns.

Notably, it has a single large barrel but an impressive eight-day, or 168-hour, power reserve. The movement is automatic and wound by a red gold rotor that’s been engraved “One More” at the request of the client.

Key Facts and Price

Jaquet Droz Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold “Dragon Mask”
Ref. J0135230091

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 13.36 mm
Material: 18k red gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 2625 SQ
Functions: Hours, minutes, and tourbillon
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 8 days

Strap: Patterned leather with 18k red gold folding clasp

Limited edition: Unique piece
Availability: Comparable commissions available from Jaquet Droz boutiques and retailers
Price: CHF450,000 before taxes

For more information, visit Jaquet-droz.com.