Now into the second half of its second century, Piaget unveiled the Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase, an eccentric entrant in the crowded field of luxury sport watches. The charm of the watch lies in its unusual feature set: an extravagant dial and easy wearing format, which includes interchangeable rubber and leather straps.

Housed in a sleek, 44 mm titanium case, the Polo Flying Tourbillon is the most complicated watch in the Polo collection since the underrated Polo Tourbillon Relatif introduced two decades ago.

Initial thoughts

I have a soft spot for watches like the Polo Flying Tourbillon that don’t fit neatly into any pre-conceived category. It’s risky to make watches like this; watches that look a bit odd on the spec sheet but feel good on the wrist. On one hand, it’s overtly sporty with a titanium case, a rubber strap, and a robust 100 m water resistance rating thanks to dual gaskets in the crown.

Looked at from another perspective, it’s a piece of true industrial-haute horlogerie with a flying tourbillon and a thoughtfully executed pointer-style moonphase indicator, sans date. This last detail stands out to me, because the date and moonphase complications usually go hand-in-hand. To be clear, I don’t miss the date; its absence contributes to the care-free nature of the watch.

The 44 mm titanium case looks large on paper, and indeed, the diameter is accentuated by its 9.8 mm case height, which is on the thinner side as such things go. But the Polo wears well; its short lugs and curved rubber strap ensure a smaller footprint than you’d expect from the dimensions alone.

As slim as it is, the case flanks are unexpectedly ornate featuring PVD-treated blue titanium inlays. The look is something of a contemporary twist on the vintage Polo’s ornate gadroons, and it’s one of the best-looking aspects of the design.

The Polo Flying Tourbillon is powered by the cal. 642P, the latest movement built on the tried-and-tested cal. 600P platform, which is nearing its 25th birthday. The 3 Hz rate and 40-hour power reserve won’t stand out on paper, but it’s reasonably slim and robust enough for everyday wear. Its most important characteristic, however, is the flying tourbillon nicely presented at twelve.

Though concealed behind a solid back, the cal. 642P is actually a form movement – albeit one conceived for a rectangular case. The cal. 642P is a fine movement with many qualities that certainly deserves to be revived, though it’s arguable Piaget should have reworked the base plate to fit the Polo case.

The straps are interchangeable with the push of a button.

As with the case, there’s more to the dial than meets the eye. Eagle-eyed readers will also note the Piaget logo appears to be floating, suspended over the keyless works at three o’clock; it’s actually printed on an otherwise invisible sapphire crystal panel in the center of the dial.

The standard Polo features a horizontally embossed dial similar to that of the Patek Philippe Nautilus, but the Polo Flying Tourbillon puts a new spin on this familiar formula with a cushion-shaped opening in the center of the dial and a large pointer-style moonphase indicator at six.

The latter is striking enough to steal some of the attention from the tourbillon located at twelve, and features heavily textured inlays to indicate each phase of the lunar cycle. The prominent moonphase symbols are undeniably beautiful and give the dial a somewhat mystical flair.

The Polo Flying Tourbillon currently retails for US$113,000; not cheap, but its unusual feature set and relaxed aesthetic differentiate it from peers like the Parmigiani Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon and Girard-Perregaux Laureato Tourbillon.

The easy-to-wear tourbillon

Luxuriously finished without being overly flashy, the Polo Flying Tourbillon manages to be a “go anywhere, do anything” type of watch despite its upmarket positioning. Its lightweight titanium case feels especially robust thanks to the mostly solid case back, and the sturdy rubber strap provides all-season wearability.

As for the strap, it’s a push-button quick change affair, and the watch comes standard with interchangeable rubber and leather straps, both in navy blue.

At this price, an interchangeable titanium bracelet would have been icing on the cake, especially since Piaget has a long history of nice bracelets, but I’d probably wear it on the rubber strap most of the time regardless.

Squaring the circle

The best view of the cal. 642P movement is actually from the front, as seen through a large sapphire crystal window in the center of the dial. The view showcases attractive perlage and a clean, workmanlike finish for the wheels and the setting lever for the moonphase, which is engaged with a recessed pusher at nine o’clock.

Most of the rest of the movement is hidden behind a solid case back, save for a porthole that reveals the business end of the flying tourbillon.

Though not visible to the owner, the concealed portion of the movement is decorated with concentric Côtes de Genève that radiate outward from the center of the tourbillon, like ripples in a pond. The movement is further dressed up front and back with blued screws for the bridges.

The cal. 642P is equally well decorated on both sides. Image – Piaget

Despite the Polo’s mostly round case, the cal. 642P is rectangular. We often find round movements in rectangular cases, but a rectangular movement in a round watch is unusual; only the original A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia and Corum Golden Bridge come to mind.

The explanation is simple: the cal. 642P is derived from the cal. 600P, which was developed for the rectangular Emperador case in 2003. All else being equal, a movement fit to the case would be more satisfying, but I find shaped movements interesting enough that I don’t mind seeing one here. That said, given the top-of-the-line positioning of this, Piaget should have reconstructed the movement for a larger footprint to fit the round case, maybe increasing the power reserve with a larger or additional barrel.

The text around the porthole in the case back translates as “Always do better than necessary.”

This lineage explains the short 40-hour power reserve, but what the cal. 642P lacks in autonomy it makes up for in longevity.

One of the oldest flying tourbillon movements still in active service, the cal. 600P and its derivatives benefit from having had all the kinks worked out. Another factor that makes the short power reserve livable is the crown, which does not screw down; this makes it easy to wind the watch without worrying about cross-threading the crown tube on-the-go.

And despite its age it still looks good, with the regulator poised at twelve and the brand’s stylised “P” logo integrated into the tourbillon cage. The cage houses a smooth Glucydur balance which oscillates at 3 Hz, and because the cage is flying, the Incabloc shock absorber is visible; you don’t usually get to see this with a tourbillon.

Concluding thoughts

Ultimately, the Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase feels like a watch Piaget made for itself. It’s not the most technically ambitious tourbillon on the market, but its mix of unconventional details and sleek format give it an easy going charm that feels refreshing next to the brashness of some rivals.

We’ve praised Piaget in the past for their handling of subtle details like typography, and we see that same attention to detail here. It’s one of the ways that Piaget embodies its motto, engraved on the case back encircling the tourbillon, “always do better than necessary.”

Key facts and price

Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase
Ref. G0A49080

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 9.8 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 642P
Functions: Hours, minutes, flying tourbillon and moonphase
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Blue rubber strap with quick release and folding clasp; blue alligator leather strap included

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Piaget boutiques and retailers
Price: US$113,000

For more, visit Piaget.com.