Seiko has introduced a new addition to its line of affordable dress watches, the Presage Craftsmanship “Unglazed Arita Porcelain” ref. SPB497. This limited edition retains the accessible pricing the Presage is known for, but is more than just affordable.

Unlike previous models with glossy porcelain dials, this has a matte texture that enhances the rhombus patterned surface, traditionally a symbol of prosperity and health in Japan.

Initial Thoughts

When Seiko launched the first enamel-dialed Presage in 2013, it was an incredible value. In the years since, Seiko has expanded the range with more ambitious designs, and other materials such as Arita porcelain and Urushi lacquer, though the dial decoration techniques employed are uniformly traditional and Japanese.

While the Presage models are still accessibly priced, this new model is US$1,850. The price tag is no longer the most compelling aspect but the dials themselves are still interesting in themselves.

Unglazed porcelain dials are already almost non-existent, and the diamond pattern makes it even more interesting. Supporting traditional craft arts is also admirable, and has seen great success in the Swiss watch industry, albeit at a much higher price point.

The new model employs the familiar Presage case, which is on the large side for a simple, dress watch, and the 27 mm diameter movement could easily fit into a smaller case. However, since a larger case also means a larger dial, it can be forgiven.

Unglazed Dial

Arita porcelain is typically glazed for a glossy finish seen on previous Presage dials, this new technique leaves the porcelain unglazed, resulting in a matte texture with a soft white hue.

This approach adds warmth and texture to the dial but also highlights intricate three-dimensional patterns more prominently. According to Seiko, the textured rhombus pattern is an auspicious motif that symbolizes prosperity and health in Japanese culture.

The matte dial is paired with highly polished gilt indices and hands, which create a strong contrast against the matte white dial. This is only notable as most previous Arita porcelain dials were paired with printed Roman numerals, which wouldn’t work with the textured dial.

The pattern is three-dimensional and created using a mold. The dials are made by an Arita-based porcelain workshop that Seiko doesn’t name but has been operating since 1830. The dials are made by one of its in-house craftsmen who has come to specialise in watch dials.

The porcelain used is specially formulated to be significantly more durable than traditional Arita porcelain, so the watch should be well suited for daily knocks and shocks.

Case and Caliber

The case is fairly compact by Seiko standards, at 40.6 mm in diameter and 12.5 mm tall. It’s detailed but not overstyled, with polished bevels that spill over onto the brushed lug hoods, and a slightly stepped-in conical bezel.

This case style has been used in other Presage models with special dials. It’s been given a sapphire crystal, super-hard Diashield coating for scratch resistance, and 100 m of water resistance for added resilience.

Inside is cal. 6R51, which is a true no-date movement without a so-called “phantom” date. While modest in looks, it boasts a three-day power reserve and uses a skeletonized MEMS escapement produced via lithography, which is rarely found at this price point.

Key facts and price

Seiko Presage “Craftsmanship” Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial
Ref. SPB497

Diameter: 40.6 mm
Height: 12.5 mm
Material: Stainless steel with super hard coating
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 6R51
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Black calf-skin leather strap

Limited edition: Yes, 1,200 pieces
Availability: In July at Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: US$1,850

For more, visit seikowatches.com