J.N. Shapiro’s Infinity Series Pure is a new entry point into the American brand. This follows the top-of-the-line Resurgence, the most American-made mechanical wristwatch built since Hamilton shut down in the 1960s.

This new model focuses purely on the dial and hands, which are excellent, while trusting Swiss suppliers with ancillary details like the case and caliber. The result is a much more accessible, though less impressive, watch than J.N. Shapiro’s usual fare.

Initial Thoughts

When the original Infinity line was discontinued in 2023, it left the brand without an entry-level watch, and the company put all of its efforts behind the ambitious Resurgence project. Now that things have settled down, the team once again has the bandwidth to support a second model.

The Infinity Series Pure uses an off-the-shelf La Joux-Perret (LJP) movement. While a good, slim movement with an extended power reserve, the LJP F200/7380 isn’t particularly premium, and a downgrade from the UWD cal. 33.1 used in previous infinity models. For example, Ralph Lauren uses the LJP movement in its Vintage 67 line priced at around US$3,000.

The case is also outsourced, likely to a Swiss manufacturer, through the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA), a consortium of independent brands that J.N. Shapiro helped found. This focuses all of Shapiro’s attention on the dial and hands, though both are significantly less complex than on the Resurgence.

At US$26,000 the Infinity Series Pure is about a third the price of the Resurgence watches. It’s a low volume creation – 32 will be made in total – and matched with the high cost of American labor, making the price palatable.

Besides the difference in cost, the six to nine-month expected lead time of the Infinity Series Pure is far lower than the projected three years for a Resurgence. The Resurgence is worth the wait for sure, but if you have one on order, the Infinity Series Pure may be worth a look to tide you over in the meantime.

Dial and Hands

The dial is turned in J.N. Shapiro’s California workshop using a traditional rose engine and straight-line machines. It bears the brand’s signature “Infinity Weave” pattern within the seconds sub-dial, which is a basket weave pattern nested inside a basket weave pattern. The brand claims it’s the most complex guilloché pattern in the industry, which is probably true.

There are two colourways, the first with rose gold hands on a silver dial, the second with white gold hands against a blackened zirconium dial. The graduations on both are cut into the dial and filled with black lacquer for contrast.

The specular polished shafts of the Breguet-like hands are impressively rounded and are sculpted from a block of material, not vaulted sheet metal.

While there is nothing wrong with the seconds hand, which carries an infinity counterweight, it does look rather plain compared to the hour and minutes hands.

Case and Caliber

The 37 mm stainless steel case is relatively tall on paper for a manually wound three-hand watch at almost nine millimeters; however, without the crystal, it’s only 7.4 mm thick, making it wear more slender than the specs would suggest.

J.N. Shapiro (correctly) chose to conceal the unassuming caliber behind an engine turned and hand-engraved case back.

Inside is a La Joux-Perret caliber F200 (formerly known as the LJP7380), a slim manually wound movement with an impressive longevity of 90 hours from two barrels.

The caliber has gained ground as a larger alternative to the ETA Peseux 7001. It lacks stop-seconds, though that would probably feel out of place on this style of watch anyway.

Key Facts and Price

J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure

Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 8.8 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Dial: Frosted silver or blackened zirconium
Water-resistance: 50 m

Movement: La Joux-Perret caliber F200
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Hand-wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 90 hours

Strap: Alligator leather

Limited edition: Yes, 18 watches per configuration
Availability: Direct from J.N. Shapiro
Price: US$26,000

For more, visit Jnshapiro.com.