Having already revealed the Tradition “Souscription” as the first watch for its 250th anniversary, Breguet has just launched the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035. Essentially a throwback to a first-generation Tradition model, the new 7035 is set apart by its flinque enamel dial, a first for the Tradition collection. And unlike the regular-production Souscription, the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde is limited to 250 pieces.

Initial thoughts

While the Classique Souscription is eminently traditional (despite its case style), the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde feels more traditional Breguet with a style that is more typical of the brand’s current offerings. The enamel dial is a good way of rebooting the Tradition, which is now two decades old. And the watch itself is beautiful and still Breguet in style.

However, this is arguably less interesting than the Souscription, because its only point of difference is the grand feu enamel dial for the time. Dial aside, it’s basically the preceding model in new dress.

Breguet does have more in store for its 250th anniversary than a pair of Tradition models, so it’ll be worth keeping an eye on the brand as the year progresses.

Tradition throwback

The new Tradition is a variant of one of the first models in the collection, but upgraded with an enamel dial. The solid gold dial is decorated in flinque enamel, which is fired translucent enamel over engine turning in the Quai de l’Horloge pattern, which was developed for Breguet’s 250th anniversary.

While the pattern is new(ish), it’s executed in the traditional manner on a hand-operated rose engine.

The rest of the watch is more familiar. The case is in 18k Breguet gold, a proprietary yellow gold allow, and measures 38 mm by 12.6 mm. It features the fluted band and straight lugs that define Breguet’s wristwatches.

The cal. 505SR inside is also mechanically identical to past self-winding Tradition models. The calibre is similar to that found in the manual-wind Tradition, but sports a hammer-shaped rotor inspired by the perpétuelle system, an early automatic mechanism invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet. The rotor is in brushed platinum to match the straight grained finish on the bridges.

Key facts and price

Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde
Ref. 7035BH/H2/9V6

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 12.6 mm
Material: 18k “Breguet” gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 505SR
Functions: Hours, minutes, and retrograde seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Alligator strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: 250 pieces
Availability: First availability at boutiques, but also at retailers
Price: US$51,200

For more information, visit Breguet.com.