Vacheron Constantin is marking its 270th anniversary with the record-setting, most-complicated-watch-ever, the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. Fortunately, the celebratory line-up also includes the more affordable: one step down in the collection is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 270th Anniversary.

Less complicated than the Solaria, but still one of the top-of-the-line anniversary offerings, the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is an entirely new model, rather than an existing model dressed in anniversary livery. The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar combines the self-winding cal. 2160 with a perpetual calendar mechanism, while both the dial and movement get the 270th anniversary-exclusive treatment.

Initial thoughts

The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is a fairly large but thin watch, with a clean, traditional design with tasteful elaboration. Formal on its face, the watch gets more interesting up close with the anniversary decor on the dial and movement. Overall, the look and feel is elegant; essentially the type of watch that Vacheron Constantin (VC) does well.

The execution is high quality and typical of an established, industrial-artisanal brand. The tourbillon bridge and cage stand out as being especially finely finished. Notably, the guilloche on the dial is done the traditional way, on a hand-operated straight-line engine – which is necessary for a watch of this price – while on the entry-level anniversary models the same pattern is achieved via stamping.

The anniversary guilloche is centred on a Maltese cross in between seven and eight o’clock that radiates outwards

The guilloche is unique to the anniversary models, and the pattern arguably works better here than on the simpler models as the effect is more subtle since the sub-dials occupy most of the real estate.

The other anniversary-exclusive element is the côte unique finish on the movement bridges. Essentially a type of concentric graining that is inspired by the decor of vintage pocket watch movements, it unexpectedly complements the modern construction of the movement.

Even though the anniversary touches are obvious and appealing, I would have liked more done to make this edition stand out, like a different dial material or an elaboration on the movement decoration. While I see the need for uniformity amongst the 270th anniversary models, this is the most expensive anniversary edition by far, so it could do with a little more.

On that note, while the quality of execution is on par with peers like Patek Philippe, some of the detailing can be refined. Certainly brands like VC are aware of this, and more recent calibres illustrate that. The base calibre in the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, on the other hand, was introduced over seven years ago.

The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is priced a little over US$270,000, which is a lot but par for the course for this blend of complications. The Lange 1 with the same features, but a more innovative perpetual calendar mechanism, costs more.

Complication and chronometry

As is expected for a brand like VC, the presentation is traditional. The calendar indications sit in three registers, while the leap year is discreetly shown in a small aperture at one o’clock. Both in terms of design and functions, the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar has historical basis, with its combination of features harking back to a similar watch revealed in 2005 for the brand’s 250th anniversary.

Although the watch is largish, it has good proportions. The diameter is 42 mm, but the thickness is a little over 11 mm, which is pretty compact for a self-winding tourbillon movement with a perpetual calendar. On the wrist, it feels wide but thin, which is appealing.

Though simple on the front, the Traditionnelle case has interesting detailing in profile. The lugs are subtly modelled on the Maltese cross, the brand’s logo, while the case back has a coin-edge rim.

At a distance, the dial looks entirely conventional and maybe even a little staid. But up close the anniversary guilloche gives it life. Although a simple in concept, the anniversary engine turning adds novelty with its modern, geometric aspect.

That said, I would liked a little more done on the front so that it stands out, although as I conceded earlier, there is a point in giving the anniversary models a consistent theme.

Unsurprisingly, the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is powered by a slim movement, the cal. 2162 QP/270. It’s based on the cal. 2160, the brand’s first automatic movement with a tourbillon that was launched in 2018 inside the Traditionnelle Tourbillon. And on top is the perpetual calendar module that VC has employed in the past.

The most notable detail of the base movement is its peripheral rotor. All things being equal, this makes the cal. 2160 slimmer than an automatic with a full-rotor. At the same time, it leaves room for a larger barrel, which would otherwise not be possible if a micro-rotor was employed.

Peripheral rotors are decades old, but only recently became efficient enough to be employed on a relatively large scale. Besides the advantage of thinness, this winding mechanism also affords a full view of the movement.

One of the details that easily stands out is the winding mechanism at one o’clock. It’s based on the “Magic Lever” that was originally devised by Seiko in the 1960s but now widely used in high-end movements. The system possesses the advantages of efficiency, thinness, and robust simplicity. It does, however, take up more space than other winding mechanisms, which is not an obstacle given the space savings of the peripheral winding mechanism.

The familiar Y-shaped pawl and wheel that comprise the “Magic Lever”

While the movement is identical in all technical respects to the standard versions of the calibre, it has been given the special finish that is also found on the other anniversary models.

The côte unique graining on the bridges has an old school feel to it, and its simplicity allows the rest of the movement elements to appear more prominent.

The movement is decorated in the industrial-artisanal manner that is typical of VC and its peers. That means some machine-applied finishing, though almost everything is given a final once-over by hand.

As I noted above, there are details that should be refined – we don’t see that here but do on newer movement constructions.

Also unique to the 270th anniversary editions is the commemorative hallmark on the movement

The most elaborate bit of finishing is found on the front of the watch. The tourbillon cage takes the form of the Maltese cross and shows off detailing that is definitely the work of manual decoration. And it is secured by a steel bridge with rounded arms that is similarly finished by hand.

The balance wheel has a proprietary construction that relies on both screws and adjustable weights

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 270th Anniversary
Ref. 6300/000P-H056

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.1 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 2162 QP/270
Features: Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Alligator with folding buckle

Limited edition: 127 pieces
Availability: At Vacheron Constantin boutiques only
Price: US$273,000 before taxes

For more, visit vacheron-constantin.com.