In the 1970s, arguably no watch brand was having more fun than Seiko, which launched the bold King Seiko Vanac collection in 1972. Five decades on, Seiko returns to the concept with the all-new King Seiko Vanac, with bold dial colours and an angular, faceted case inspired by its namesake.

Despite an entirely new design – the modern-day Vanac is not a remake – the collection captures the style and spirit of the funky 1970s originals perfectly. Available in five different dial colours, each inspired by the Tokyo skyline at a different time of day, the Vanac also features a new automatic cal. 8L45, now the highest-spec movement for Seiko’s mid tier watches.

Initial thoughts

The past decade has treated us to more than our fair share of vintage reissues, which by and large have focused on the glorious designs of the 1950s and 1960s. But there are only so many historical designs from this era that a brand can revisit, and as we move into 2025, it’s nice to see a little variety as Seiko looks to the 1970s. And while the Vanac is very much vintage inspired, it isn’t quite a reissue of any particular historical model.

Though the bracelet is integrated, the design is different enough from Gerald Genta’s designs that it avoids the common pitfall of looking like it’s trying too hard to look like something else.

A selection of vintage Vanac watches

The Vanac features a 41 mm case that is quite chunky at 14.3 mm. The case itself is essentially an elongated hexagon, with a circular bezel and dial opening, and features alternating brushed and polished surfaces that bring the angular shape to life.

Despite the transparent case back, a first for King Seiko, the Vanac is water resistant to 100 m, making it a true “go anywhere, do anything'” watch; versatility that helps reinforce the overall value proposition.

The new Vanac range is powered by a new automatic movement, the cal. 8L45. In the past, you could get a 4 Hz rate or a 72-hour reserve from Seiko, but never both. The cal. 8L45 combines there traits, and takes its place as the new top-of-the-line Seiko mechanical movement in its mid-price offerings.

Priced at US$3,300, the King Seiko Vanac collection sits at the upper end of the Seiko range, but is still significantly cheaper than an entry level mechanical Grand Seiko. All things considered, it’s a decent value considering the new movement, bold visual style, and typical Seiko quality.

A groovy design

The Vanac is defined by its bold dials, angular case, and integrated bracelet. And while the trend towards integrated bracelet sport watches may be nearing its end, the Vanac manages to feel fresh. It feels distinctly seventies, without coming off as a wannabe Royal Oak or Nautilus. This is actually quite a feat, and helps the Vanac stand on its own.

The bracelet perfectly fits the design of the case, and is installed with quick-release pins. This is an interesting choice for a watch with proprietary lugs, and might suggest that proprietary straps are in the works. But if I could change one thing about the Vanac it would be the bracelet, specifically the visible pin holes which are present all the way to the case and cheapen the look.

There are five dials to choose from, though ice blue is exclusive to Seiko boutiques. The other four options, navy blue, purple, ivory, and brown, will be more widely available, with only the brown variant being a limited edition.

An especially pleasing detail that is consistent across all dial variants is the V-shaped balance on the centre seconds hand, which, together with the V-shaped hour marker at 12, reference the name of the collection.

Top-of-the-line movement

Seiko describes the new cal. 8L45 as representing “the pinnacle of Seiko’s mechanical watch movements” and it’s easy to see why.

Thanks to an improved mainspring, the new movement beats at 4 Hz, offers a power reserve of 72 hours, and is rated to +10 to -5 seconds per day. That’s good enough to top the Seiko range, but it still comes up short against pricier options from Grand Seiko.

Key facts and price

Seiko King Seiko Vanac
Ref. SLA083 (purple)
Ref. SLA085 (navy blue)
Ref. SLA087 (silver)
Ref. SLA089 (brown)
Ref. SLA091 (light blue)

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 14.3 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m 

Movement: Cal. 8L45
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and date
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Stainless steel bracelet

Limited edition: Regular production, except for SLA089 that’s limited to 700 pieces
Availability: From Jul 2025 at Seiko boutiques and retailers (SLA091 is boutique only)
Price: US$3,300

For more information, visit seikowatches.com.

Correction March 7, 2025: The retail price is US$3,300, and not US$3,000 as indicated in an earlier version of the article.