Hands On: Raúl Pagès RP2

Simplicity executed well.

Revealed just a few days ago, the RP2 is the second in-house wristwatch of Raúl Pagès, an independent watchmaker with a background in restoration.

The RP2 retains the clean, tasteful styling that characterised his first watch, the RP1. But unlike the RP2, his latest creation was conceived to be mechanically simpler – but equally high quality – and more accessible in terms of price and availability. So the question is, does the RP2 live up to the high standards set by his preceding creation?

Initial thoughts

The answer, in short, is yes.

On its face the RP2 is not a surprising watch. Predictably, it’s a time-only watch with a finely decorated movement, which is exactly what many enthusiasts are seeking at the moment. The RP2 is also one of many such three-hand watches that have been launched in the last three years or so.

But the RP2 is different for a few good reasons. For one, its creator, Raúl Pagès, is both a watchmaker and restorer. His background can be discerned from many details, particularly in the movement, like the bimetallic balance and concealed screw for the crown wheel.

The quality of the watch is impeccable. The high level of execution is especially evident on the movement. Though the movement is clearly styled, it incorporates many refined details in a tasteful manner. The calibre doesn’t try to do too much and it looks right.

The dial is even cleaner but again incorporates notable details. That said, it is a little too stark for me, and I would specify a slightly different dial design if I had the chance.

That said, the design manages to be distinctive despite, or maybe because of, its simplicity. This is an achievement and Mr Pagès should be applauded for having devised something original.

Compared to the RP1 that he mostly made himself, the RP2 is more of a serially produced watch. Mr Pagès taps various suppliers for the components, but everything is finished and regulated in his workshop. As a result, the RP2 is more affordable and accessible, since Mr Pagès plans to make about 15 a year.

At CHF89,000, the RP2 is costs more or less what it should – relative to the rest of the market. It’s still a lot of money, but the RP2 arguably is better value than many similarly priced equivalents because it is done better.

A chronometer

The RP2 has the feel of a vintage watch, no doubt reflecting Mr Pagès background in the field, most notably at Parmigiani. The steel case is 38.5 mm, and 11.5 mm high, which is not thin but proportioned well. Not just the size, but the proportions of all the case elements contribute to the vintage-like feel.

The case is simple in form but finished precisely. The prototype case pictured is already very good, but the final production version will be better according to Mr Pagès.

The case is made by the case maker that’s part of Voutilainen, while the dial-making entity of that group produces the RP2. This underlines Voutilainen’s status as a preferred supplier to high-end independent brands.

The dial is made up of multiple parts, but primarily a blue-coated brass base that’s topped with a white agate disc. On the periphery is a flange with the hour and minute scales, leaving a narrow band of blue that frames the dial.

The clever use of pale blue is something that Mr Pagès employed in the RP1, but here the shade is more integral to the design.

Like the case, the dial is simple but done well. The fanciest element on the front are the hands, which are finished by hand. The hands are all in steel, with rounded profiles and a mirror polished finish as is the norm for such a watch.

The interesting detail here is the hour hand. It is Breguet inspired, but with a twist, which was Mr Pagès’ intention. Instead of the open circle that defines the traditional Breguet hand, the hour hand has a round steel disc at its end that is secured with a visible rivet that gives it a decorative aspect.

Ironically, despite the RP2 being a time-only watch, it is all about the movement. Like the case, the movement has some vintage inspiration, once again reflecting Mr Pagès’ career. And like the external components, the movement components are produced by specialists, with Mr Pagès concentrating on decoration and regulation.

Although the movement design and layout are clearly traditional, it is recognisably evolved from the RP1. This lineage shows that Mr Pagès is able to competently construct a movement both in a technical and aesthetic sense.

The movement is not just a plain time-only, but it boasts notably technical details. The pallet lever, for example, is of the counterweighted type historically found in precision pocket watches.

Granted this doesn’t confer any functional advantage in a modern wristwatch, but it is a neat reference to Mr Pagès’ restoration work. Moreover the counterweight of the lever adds an additional, very tiny component that can be hand finished

Under the open-worked steel cock, similar to that found in the RP1, is an oversized balance wheel with an overcool hairspring.

Conceived by Mr Pagès himself, the balance appears to be bimetallic, but not in the traditional temperature compensation sense.

Instead, the inner rim of the balance features four brass regulating weights, each containing a screw. It’s clearly a modern design, but one rooted in historical timekeeping.

As is often the case with such watches, much of the value-add in the RP2 lies in the movement decoration.

While most of the movement components are produced by suppliers, all of the decoration is done in-house at Mr Pagès’ workshop, which is him along with two watchmakers (and soon to be a third).

The finishing is exemplary. Not only is it well done, it manages to cover several different traditional techniques, ranging from Cotes de Geneve to frosting.

A noteworthy design choice in the decoration is the frosted base plate. I asked Mr Pagès about this, and he responded that he personally dislikes perlage, which is the conventional decor for the base plate. In his opinion, not only is frosting more attractive, it is a better backdrop for the balance and escapement.


Key facts and price

Raúl Pagès RP2

Case diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: 11.5 mm
Material: Recycled stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: RP2
Functions: Hours, minutes, and small seconds
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Leather strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: Direct from Raul Pages, with 25 pieces delivered per year
Price: CHF89,000 before taxes

For more, visit Pageswatches.com.


 

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