Louis Vuitton has turned to Kari Voutilainen to reimagine its distinctive travel watch. The Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6 takes its cues from the Escale Worldtime, retaining the trunk-inspired case (but here in tantalum and platinum) and hand-painted, multi-colour dial, but with the artisanal elements of Voutilainen in the form of a guilloche dial and the cal. 28 movement with a second time zone.

The LVKV-02 is Louis Vuitton’s second of five collaborations with independent watchmakers, after the inaugural LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie by Rexhep Rexhepi that debuted in 2023. As with the earlier project, the proceeds from the LVKV-02 will go to fund the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize.

“LVOUTILAINEN”

Initial thoughts

The LVKV-02 is instantly recognisable as a collaborative effort because the design cues of both brands are obvious and complementary. In tactile terms, it has the polished, quality feel of the typical Voutilainen watch. But the LVKV-02 is expensive, very much so, which is its only weakness.

With its recent launches like the Convergence and Taiko Spin Time, Louis Vuitton has adopted a more subtle aesthetic as opposed to the extravagant style that defined much of its earlier watches. I, however, like the colourful aesthetic of the Escale Worldtime, enough that I own one. I think it remains one of the brand’s most original designs.

So the LVKV-02 has an easy appeal for me. It brings back the hand-painted dial but on a much, much higher level in terms of execution.

The quality of make is obvious across all components. Voutilainen’s movement is of course top class, as is its guilloche, but also the tantalum-and-platinum case that’s made in Louis Vuitton’s Geneva facility.

The LVKV-02 costs €458,000 without taxes, which is about the same as the preceding LVRR-01. But the LVRR-01 was substantially more complicated in having a tourbillon and chronograph with chime.

That said, Louis Vuitton has stated publicly the proceeds from the LVKV-02 will support its prize for independent watchmakers. Funding the prize doesn’t take away the sticker shock, but it adds context.

More broadly, the LVKV-02 illustrates Kari Voutilainen’s success in building his brand as a manufacture. Voutilainen was responsible for the dial, hands, and movement for the LVKV-02.

Most of the work and done as the watches will be delivered sometime in May 2025. Granted the project was several years in the making, but Voutilainen can produce and deliver with a consistently high quality – a feat in itself.

Escale redux

The watch was born from a collaborative discussion between Louis Vuitton and Kari Voutilainen. After Mr Voutilainen selected the Escale case as something he wanted to work with, Matthieu Hegi, the design director of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton (LFT), suggested the Worldtime as inspiration.

Then Mr Voutilainen helped to give birth to a watch that would be “in my taste” as he put it. Some elements of the LVKV-02 also reflect the eye of Jean Arnault, watch director of Louis Vuitton and a watch collector himself.

The LVKV-02 is sized similarly to the Escale that inspired it. At 40.5 mm and 12.54 mm high, the case is a good size. Surprisingly, it also feels like a Voutilainen case in the hand.

The case is two-tone, but subtle. The brushed case middle is tantalum, the blue-grey metal that’s a favourite of Mr Hegi. The bezel, back, crown, and lugs, are polished platinum. According to Mr Voutilainen, he opted for a platinum bezel to frame the grey dial.

The lugs have faux rivets that reference Louis Vuitton’s trunks

The dial is almost pure Voutilainen. It’s a solid gold disc with a guilloche inspired by the Louis Vuitton “Damier” pattern. Likewise the enamelled 24-hour indicator at six o’clock was engraved and enamelled at Voutilainen.

But the chapter ring was painted at LFT by Maryna Bossy, the same artisan responsible for the Escale Worldtime. Hand painted in acrylic, then fired in an oven, section by section, the chapter ring requires 32 hours of painting and eight hours in the oven.

Resembling a nautical flags, the motif on the chapter ring is actually inspired by the blazons (a coat-of-arms or other symbol) employed as identity tags on vintage trunks

Surprisingly, Ms Bossy’s craft is also found on the reverse of the watch. The barrel ratchet wheel is overlaid with a white gold disc that’s hand painted in a similar style. This took another 16 hours of painting and another eight hours of firing.

The rest of the movement is familiar Voutilainen GMR calibre. Based on the cal. 28, the GMR incorporates a second time zone display at six o’clock for home time. It’s advanced in one hour steps by pressing the crown. Though it’s not extremely advanced for a travel watch, it does the job while preserving the Voutilainen look on the front and back.

Voutilainen is known for its haute horlogerie finishing, which it also offers in a range of styles. The LVKV-02 sticks to a traditional aesthetic, which was the choice of Mr Arnault. The German silver bridges are striped, while many of the steel parts are polished, including the wide bridge for the oversized balance.

The customary plaque on the barrel bridge bears “LVOUTILAINEN”

Like the LVRR-01, the LVRR-02 will be delivered in a trunk hand painted to echo the watch.The chapter ring is reproduced on two faces of the trunk, while the GMT indictor frames the lock.

The hand-painted trunk for the LVKV-02. Image – Louis Vuitton

Key facts and price

Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6

Diameter: 40.5 mm
Height: 12.54 mm
Material: Tantalum case middle, with bezel, back, and lugs in platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Voutilainen GMR 6
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator, and second time zone on 24-hour indicator
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Manual winding
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Leather with platinum pin buckle

Limited edition: Five pieces, and one prototype each for Louis Vuitton and Voutilainen
Availability: At Louis Vuitton boutiques
Price: €458,000 before taxes 

For more, visit Louisvuitton.com.