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Hermès’ Latest Metiers d’Art Watch is Impressionist Equestrian

Combining fired enamel and pad printing.

Hermès’ myriad interpretations of its signature motif ranges from the comic to the complicated. The Slim d’Hermès Cheval Brossé, on the other hand, is elegantly abstract. Retaining the familiar 39.5 mm case design of the “Slim” model, this features a meticulously handcrafted dial depicting a stylised horse rendered in brushstrokes.

Unusually, the “Cheval Brossé” dial is the result of both artisanal and mechanical techniques: the base is traditional, hand-made grand feu enamel, while the horse is pad printed in multiple runs for each colour.

Initial thoughts

While the equestrian motif is repeated often, the versatility and creativity of Hermès’ design department allows the theme to stay fresh. The Cheval Brossé illustrates this: while the horse is recognisably Hermès in form and flavour, it is still striking different from prior models.

Compared to several of Hermès’ other métiers d’art watches that tend to be more elaborate, the Cheval Brossé – French for “brushed horse” – possesses an understated aesthetic with its abstractly rendered horse set against the pristine blue enamel dial. Though the dial is simple, the “brushstrokes” that make up the horse give the dial a surprising degree of motion.

The combination of enamel and pad printing, while not unique, is uncommon. Though this means the dial doesn’t boast the full-fledged artisanal craft, it certainly makes the watch more affordable.

Sky blue enamel

As is typical for a metiers d’art watch, the focal point of the Cheval Brossé is the dial. The base is fired enamel done the traditional way. Finely-ground colored glass powder is mixed with oil, then painted on the dial by hand. The dial is then fired to create its vivid hue.

The horse motif is printed onto the dial with the conventional pad and plate method, one colour at a time.

Powering the watch is the ultra-thin, self-winding cal. H1950, a micro-rotor calibre made by Vaucher that’s been customised for Hermes. It beats at 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) and offers 48 hours of power reserve.