A monochromatic reinterpretation of Ulysse Nardin’s skeleton watch with a prominent “X”, the Blast “Amoureuxpeintre” is a collaboration with Vsevolod “Sever” Cherepanov, a Kyrgyz streetwear designer also known as Amoureuxpeintre who was one of the first to use augmented reality prints on fabric.

Restrained and minimalist, the new Blast has a 42 mm sandblasted titanium case and an unusual frosted sapphire dial that partially hides the skeletonised “X” movement, leaving the calibre only faintly visible. According to Ulysse Nardin, the artist drew inspiration for the design from frosted glass panels found in offices.

Initial thoughts

Renowned for pioneering silicon components in mechanical watchmaking with its groundbreaking Freak, Ulysse Nardin has made some odd design choices in recent years, including the decision to make the letter “X” a centrepiece of its designs. The collaboration with Amoureuxpeintre hides the “X” and transforms the Blast case into something low-key with its all-black finish, and the result is a surprisingly different, and appealing watch.

Styling aside, the latest Blast is typical Ulysse Nardin in terms of mechanics, which is to say accomplished. Although the Blast collection does not share the same status or historical significance of the Freak, it still demonstrates Ulysse Nardin’s commitment to contemporary horology with a high-spec, in-house movement that has all of its regulator – hairspring, balance, escape, and pallet lever – in silicon.

While the Blast X Amoureuxpeintre is probably the most appealing of the time-only Blast model, at US$32,700 it is considerably more expensive than its equivalent regular production counterpart, by almost 50% in fact. That feels a little too much for the facelifted dial and crystals, although the fact that this is a tiny run of just 29 pieces helps to rationalise the price.

Frosted sapphire

The focal point of the Blast “Amoureuxpeintre” are the frosted sapphire crystals found on both the front and back of the watch, allowing only subtle glimpses of the signature “X” movement with its angular bridges.

Finished entirely in matte black, the 42 mm titanium case is sandblasted and then PVD coated black. In traditional Ulysse Nardin style, a plaque on the left of the case is engraved with the limited edition number. The all-black look is matched with anthracite skeletonized hour and minute hands filled with grey Super-LumiNova.

Inside is the same UN-371 calibre found in the standard model, but only visible in silhouette. Despite being a time-only movement, the UN-371 has notable features, including 96 hours of power reserve, or almost four days. In addition, the movement features an proprietary, oversized balance wheel, which like the escapement and hairspring, is in silicon.

Key facts and price

Ulysse Nardin Blast Amoureuxpeintre
Ref. 3713-260LE-9A-SEVER/0A

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Anthracite PVD titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. UN-371
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 96 hours

Strap: Grey alcantara strap

Limited edition: 29 pieces
Availability: Now at Ulysse Nardin boutiques
Price: US$32,700

For more, visit Ulysse-nardin.com.