Twenty-twenty four marks the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko’s 9R Spring Drive movement platform, an occasion the brand has chosen to mark with a range of anniversary editions including the Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary SBGC275. A large, richly detailed watch with a captivating dial, the SBGC275 is robust, interesting, and capable of nearly anything, short of fitting under a short cuff.

Initial thoughts

At first glance, the SBGC275 looks like just a Spring Drive chronograph with a red dial. But a closer look reveals a highly nuanced colour that changes from red to orange depending on the angle – the result of a proprietary dial coating technique.

At 44.5 mm in diameter and nearly 17 mm thick, the SBGC275 is unapologetically big and bold. That said, the watch feels smaller than it is thanks to the use of titanium for the case and bracelet, and the unusually wide 23 mm lug width helps reduce the visual size. This latter dimension may limit the options for aftermarket straps, but since most owners will likely stick with the bracelet, this concern is largely academic.

The watch is powered by an upgraded version of the familiar cal. 9R86 Spring Drive chronograph GMT movement, which made its debut in 2007. But eagle-eyed movement geeks will notice the SBGC275 is equipped with the fine-tuned cal. 9R96 first seen in 2017, which was also used in the Nissan GT-R 50th Anniversary edition.

In many ways, the SBGC275 captures Grand Seiko’s strengths and weaknesses. The brand executes well – the quality of build is high – while possessing both a strong competency in dial-making and an affinity for producing anniversary editions.

Unsurprisingly Grand Seiko has produced numerous limited editions over the past few years, with many, like the SBGC275, distinguished from regular production models primarily by the special dial treatment. So as good as the SBGC275 is, it feels somewhat formulaic.

Priced at US$13,400, the SBGC275 offers a reasonable value given its striking looks, unique technical competency, and fit and finish. Spring Drive watches are a category unto themselves, making it difficult to define a competitive set, but compared to most other large chronographs from the likes of Hublot and Zenith, the SBGC275 offers an elevated level of quality and precision for similar money.

A very special dial

The effect is made possible by a patented dial coating process that involves several layers of nanoscale film to create a highly engaging look that is constantly changing. The colour-changing effect was the goal from the beginning, taking inspiration from the ephemeral way the morning sun hits the Hotaka mountains near the manufacture.

On the wrist, the dial is clear, vibrant, and engaging, with a mix of contrasting finishes and snailing on the chronograph registers. The hands and dial markers are faceted and generously lumed, including the GMT hand. Even the 24 hour scale underneath the sapphire crystal bezel is lumed, glowing in a shade of blue that contrasts nicely with the green lume used for the hands and dial.

More than just a pretty face

But the dial is not the only thing that distinguishes the SBGC275 from its mainstream stablemates. The watch is powered by the cal. 9R96 which is more finely adjusted than the standard cal. 9R86 found in similar watches like the SBGC253.

Specifically, the upgraded movement is rated to +/- 10 seconds per month compared to the cal. 9R86’s rating of +/- 15 seconds per month. On paper, this is a substantial upgrade, but anecdotal evidence suggests the standard version runs more accurately than its stated rating, meaning it may be hard to tell the difference in real-world use.

The movement features a GMT function in addition to a column wheel chronograph with vertical clutch, and offers a power reserve of 72 hours.

Angular lines

Grand Seiko’s distinctive “grammar of design” has long favoured angular forms and contrasting surface finishes over sensual curves, and the SBGC275 is emblematic of this formula, offering a veritable cornucopia of faceted edges. Though the dial and bezel are round, the case is nearly rectangular, evoking the brands quirky watches from the 1960s and 1970s.

But my favourite design element on the case is actually the set of mushroom-style chronograph pushers, which are finely detailed. The pusher tubes, for example, are brushed and beveled, and the faces of the pushers are decorated with concentric circles. The pushers not only look good, but they feel good in operation as well.

The matching bracelet helps ensure a comfortable fit, thanks to a toolless micro-adjustment mechanism integrated into the clasp. While this system is somewhat bulky compared to other solutions on the market, it’s hardly noticeable on the wrist because the watch itself has so much presence.

That said, if there’s one area that could be improved, it is the bracelet, which is not as nicely executed as the case, dial, and movement. For example, the plugged ends of the holes in each link are clearly visible, whereas rivals like Rolex and Omega fully conceal these elements. This is a weakness common across the Grand Seiko catalogue, although insiders have revealed that Grand Seiko is working on improving it.

Concluding thoughts

While destined to be a niche product due to its imposing size and 700-piece limitation, the SBGC275 is nonetheless an exciting and visually dynamic watch that offers a great deal of technical interest thanks to its finely adjusted Spring Drive movement.

Key facts and price

Grand Seiko Sport Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition
Ref. SBGC275

Diameter: 44.5 mm
Height: 16.8 mm
Material: “High-intensity titanium”
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: 9R96
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT function, power reserve indicator, and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: NA (Spring Drive)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Titanium bracelet

Limited edition: 700 pieces
Availability: Now at Grand Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: US$13,400; or 18,000 Singapore dollars

For more, visit grand-seiko.com