Sotheby’s upcoming Geneva auction includes Treasures of Time, a small but impressive collection of watches consigned by a European gentleman of evidently sophisticated taste. While the most valuable of the 31 lots in the collection is a first-series ref. 2499 in pink gold, the most striking watch is arguably this Patek Philippe ref. 2499 third series with a glossy black dial featuring Breguet numerals.

Only six examples of the ref. 2499 are known to have a black dial, and this is one of them. The black dial with Breguet numerals gives the watch tremendous appeal and presence on the wrist.

Beautiful as it is, however, this ref. 2499 is not absolute perfect from a historical perspective as the black dial was added long after the watch was made.

The watch was originally sold by Patek Philippe in 1964, probably with the typical silver dial, and it gained this black dial sometime in the 1980s.

According to its well documented history, the owner of the watch in the 1980s was an important enough collector that when he asked for a black dial with Breguet numerals, Patek Philippe said yes. The dial was thus produced by Stern Frères and installed in the watch.

It’s worth noting that most of the six known ref. 2499s with a black dial have a similar history in that the black dials were subsequent additions.

Though it’s clearly not a vintage dial, Stern Frères executed it well. The dial is finished with a glossy black lacquer and gold powder print, while the indices are applied Breguet numerals in solid gold to match the hands and case.

This is not the only ref. 2499 with a black dial subsequently installed, but it is the only one known with Breguet numerals instead of batons. The numerals add a great deal to its charm.

As for the rest of the watch, it is in good condition. It’s clearly been serviced before, but treated finely and sympathetically so it retains much of its original appeal.

If I were the fortunate type of watch enthusiast who collected at this level, this ref. 2499 would be a top pick for an everyday watch. It is not certified perfect, but it possesses a special charisma when on the wrist. (But I would still set aside a few more million for a perfect watch with an archive-certified special dial).

This specimen was last sold publicly in November 2010 at Christie’s Geneva, where it achieved CHF579,000 including fees. On November 10, 2024, it will once again go under the hammer, this time at Sotheby’s in Geneva with an estimate of CHF1.0-3.0 million.

As a point of reference, a comparable ref. 2499 with a redone black dial (though originally with a black dial when it left the factory) sold in 2022 at Phillips for just under CHF1.2 million including fees.

For more, visit the catalogue at Sothebys.com.