Panerai raised some eyebrows when it installed the newly developed perpetual calendar movement in the beefy Luminor. Now the brand brings the complication to its more elegant, but still oversized, wristwatch with the Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453.

Initial thoughts

The Radiomir collection has always been Panerai’s most elegant offering, with some older models even being dress watches, albeit in Panerai style. The slimmer cushion-shaped case, wire lugs, and onion crown evoke the early wristwatches. Compared to the bulkier Luminor, the Radiomir is more adaptable in terms of design and complications, and consequently sometimes departs from the brand’s signature military look.

A complication such as a perpetual calendar tends to fit better in more classical designs. For that reason, the perpetual calendar didn’t feel at home in the Luminor format.

Bringing the perpetual calendar to the Radiomir seems like the sensible thing to do. The PAM01453 is handsome, especially with a case in Goldtech, Panerai’s proprietary rose gold alloy of platinum and copper that the brand claims to have superior durability. 

Though more elegant, the PAM01453 is still a rather large watch in typical Panerai style and measures 45mm across. The slim lugs and the leather strap should increase wearability to some extent, but the piece remains imposing.

The P.4100

The PAM01453 celebrates in part the first Panerai watch prototype that was developed in 1935, a timepiece that was christened Radiomir for the luminous radium on the dial. While the PAM01453 is not an anniversary piece per se, the styling subtly suggests a celebratory occasion.

The familiar Panerai dial dominates the aesthetic, but instead of the conventional black, the dial is in a silver-hued sunburst finish that’s better suited to the complication. The big numerals are cut-out, revealing a luminous layer underneath in the classic Panerai “sandwich” construction. A nice touch is the highly polished minute hand cannon pinion, which carries the hands.

The movement inside the PAM01453 is the P.4100, among the latest to be developed by the brand. Over the years Panerai has come to manufacture some interesting and well-made movements, with signature features like long power reserves and robust, industrial constructions.

The P.4100 is a hand-wound, 35 mm-diameter movement which features a perpetual calendar and a GMT indication. The movement can be set exclusively through the crown, leaving no need for case pushers.

The dial shows the day and date, while the month and year are displayed on the case back side, along with a circular power reserve. The movement runs for three days and its free-sprung balance beats at 4 Hz. 

Interestingly the watch shows both the leap year cycle and the current year in a four-digit format. This, along with the crown-only adjustment reminds of IWC’s famous Kurt Klaus perpetual calendar module. The technology seems to have been shared between Richemont brands, since similar modules can be found in some Jaeger-LeCoultre perpetual calendars. 

What makes the P.4100 seemingly more advanced is the fact that there is information displayed on the case back, implying the construction is not purely modular, but rather integrated. Along with the two series linked barrels, the micro-rotor winding system and GMT complication, it all adds up to an impressively engineered movement.

The finish on the P.4100 is neatly done in classic Panerai style: brushed three-quarter plate bridge, broken by a sunken and engraved micro rotor. The screw heads are polished and the bevels sharply cut — undoubtedly done by machine. The industrial finish works well with the instrument-like indicators and the robust-looking architecture of the caliber.

Key facts and price

Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech
Ref. PAM01453

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Goldtech
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: P.4100
Functions: Hours, minutes, GMT, perpetual calendar
Winding: Micro rotor automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (8 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Brown alligator leather with Goldtech clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: Only at Panerai boutiques
Price: US$46,200

For more, visit panerai.com.