Grand Seiko’s debuted its first-ever Spring Drive movement in 2004 with the cal. 9R65. Now the brand is marking 20 years of the 9R Spring Drive movement family with the Elegance Collection SBGY035 and SBGA499, both sporting striking red dials inspired by the sunlit autumn scenery around Mount Hotaka.

Part of the Thin Dress Series, the SBGY035 is flat and elegant, with a domed, textured dial. On the other hand, SBGA499 employs the classic Grand Seiko case and bracelet, matched with a sunburst-brushed dial in red that has the signature Spring Drive power reserve indicator at eight o’clock.

The SBGA499

Initial thoughts

I am a Grand Seiko fanboy. The brand offers a strong value proposition across its catalogue. Furthermore, Spring Drive is synonymous with Grand Seiko. The hybrid approach of Spring Drive means it boasts quartz-level accuracy despite being having an entirely mechanical mainspring and gear train.

The new pair are perfect representations of Grand Seiko’s approach to horology, both good and bad. The two watches are striking, especially since red isn’t a colour often employed by Grand Seiko. The SBGY035 in particular stands out since the textured red dial is uncommon for Grand Seiko and dress watches in general.

The SBGY035

That said, Grand Seiko’s limited editions feel too frequent, especially since many are only colour variations of each other. This is a regular criticism of Grand Seiko, but it hasn’t dampened sales of such limited editions, which probably indicates enthusiasts still appreciate the intrinsic qualities of Grand Seiko’s offerings.

Mount Hotaka

The SBGY035 and SBGA499 are based on regular-production models, but distinguished with red dials inspired by the morning landscape in autumn of Mount Hotaka, a peak located near the Shinshu Watch Studio that produces Grand Seiko Spring Drive models.

The SBGY035 features a stainless steel case that is 38.5 mm in diameter and 10.2 mm high, near-perfect proportions for a modern dress watch. Due to the short lugs, the SBGY035 wears compact and elegant.

Finished with Grand Seiko’s trademark zaratsu flat polishing, the case is mirror-polished on its tops and satin-polished on its flanks. The sapphire crystal is domed, echoing the vintage-style domed dial.

The dial is textured with a motif resembling random brushstrokes, and accented with a gold-plated “GS’ logo and seconds hand.

Under the sapphire back is the manual-wind cal. 9R31, one of the latest-generation Spring Drive movements. Accurate to +/- 15 seconds per month, it has 72 hours of power reserve. Like most newer Grand Seiko calibres, it is decorated with details like polished countersinks and blue-filled engraving.

Right next to the exposed barrel is a power reserve indicator

The SBGA499 has a more straightforward design that has been in Grand Seiko’s catalogue for over two decades.

The case is entirely polished steel and water resistant to 100 m. It measures 40.2 mm in diameter and 12.8 mm in thickness.

The sunburst red dial has applied indices and facetted hour and minute hands. The “GS” emblem is in gilt, as is the recessed, patterned scale for the power reserve indicator at eight o’clock.

The tried-and-tested cal. 9R65 inside is visible through the sapphire case back. Rated to +/- 15 seconds per month, it offers 72 hours of power reserve. Unlike the cal. 9R31, this is self-winding and is decorated in a more industrial style that is typical of earlier generation Grand Seiko movements.

Key facts and price

Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition
Ref. SBGA499

Diameter: 40.2 mm
Height: 12.8 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 9R65
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve indicator
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: Unavailable
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Matching stainless steel bracelet

Limited edition: 1,300 pieces
Availability: At Grand Seiko boutiques and retailers starting September 2024
Price: US$5,800

Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition
Ref. SBGY035

Diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: 10.2 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 9R31
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve indicator
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: Unavailable
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Brown crocodile strap with three-fold clasp with push button release

Limited edition: 700 pieces
Availability: At Grand Seiko boutiques and retailers starting November 2024
Price: US$8,500

For more, visit grand-seiko.com