Ulysse Nardin just dropped the Diver Net OPS and Diver X Skeleton OPS, a pair of military-inspired sports watches made from sustainable materials. Dressed in olive drab and black, the two watches utilise recycled steel and carbon composites, and even nylon straps made from fishing nets.

Though the emphasis on sustainability and styling are clearly modern, the basis of the watches is historical: the design is modelled on the shipborne marine chronometers Ulysse Nardin was once famous for.

The Diver X Skeleton OPS with its open dial

Initial Thoughts

Ulysse Nardin opted for more restrained aesthetics for the new Diver Duo, instead of the brighter colours found on past models. The Diver Net OPS in particular has a low-key, functional look. Notably, the trademark “X” motif on its dial – which you either love or hate – is not particularly obvious. I find the “X” too bold on some other designs, but here it works better with the military-esque look of the dial.

However, both the materials and movements found inside the two watches reflect the brand’s focus on advanced, industrial watchmaking. The Diver Net OPS, for example, is an entry-level model but still equipped with an in-house movement with a silicon hairspring and free-sprung balance, along with a diamond-coated escapement.

The Diver Net OPS

And the use of recycled materials is also interesting. The carbon composite parts of the case are offcuts from the aircraft manufacturing, which according to the brand reduce the environmental impact of case making by 40% compared to conventional processes.

The proposition for both mostly makes sense, save for one aspect of the design that feels incomplete, the movement treatment on the reverse. Both feature movements with conventional rhodium-finish bridges, resulting in a silver-tone finish that contrasts with the black-and-green palette. A matte black or grey movement treatment would have been more visually coherent.

The back of the Diver X Skeleton OPS

At US$13,300 for the Diver Net OPS and US$27,500 for the Diver X Skeleton OPS, the two are priced in line with comparable offerings in the catalogue.

The Diver Net OPS is a more easily understood value proposition with its high-spec in-house movement and multi-material case. The Diver X Skeleton, on the other hand, seems pricier, but given that its movement shares many elements with the Freak X, including the exotic balance assembly, the price is arguably justified.

Military green

Water resistant up to 300 m, the Diver Net OPS has a case measuring 44 mm by 14.81 mm case that is made from 95% recycled stainless steel. The inserts on the case sides are nylon from recycling fishing nets, while the bezel insert is Carbonium, carbon composite offcuts obtained from the manufacturing of aircraft wings and fuselages.

Sporting an olive-drab grained finish resembling military equipment, the dial of the Diver Net OPS has the same layout as historical Ulysse Nardin marine chronometers with  a power reserve indicator at 12 and small seconds at six. Inside the seconds register is “1846”, the year of the brand’s founding but also a reference to the serial numbers found on the dials of marine chronometers.

Diver Net OPS

Sharing a similar aesthetic but equipped with a more advanced and elaborate movement, the Diver X Skeleton OPS is comparably sized at 44 mm by 15.7 mm.

It has a case in lightweight titanium that’s coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC), giving it a dark grey finish that almost black. Carbonium is once again employed for the bezel, but also for the barrel cover visible at 12 on the dial.

The Diver X Skeleton OPS has an open-worked movement in place of the dial. It similarly features a prominent “X” on the front, but here the letter is actually the base plate of the movement. And visible through the lower arms of the “X” is the silicon balance wheel.

High-tech mechanics

The Diver Net OPS is powered by the in-house UN-118, the brand’s longstanding workhorse calibre featuring 60 hours of power reserve and a free-sprung balance with a silicon hairspring. Its pallet lever and escape wheel are coated in wear-resistant DiamonSil, a diamond-like substance that eliminates the need for lubrication.

The Diver X Skeleton OPS contains the UN-372, which is the brand’s top-of-the-line time-only movement. It boasts an oversized oscillator similar to that found in the Freak X, as well as a DiamonSil-coated escapement.

Key facts and price

Ulysse Nardin Diver Net OPS 
Ref. 1183-170-8A/0A (fabric strap)
Ref. 1183-170-8A/3A (rubber strap)

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 14.81 mm
Material: 95% recycled stainless steel middle case and movement holder; Nylo® X Carbonium® side parts and case back: 60% upcycled fishing nets & 40% upcycled carbon fibres; Carbonium® concave rotating bezel: 100% upcycled carbon fibres
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 300 m

Movement: Cal. UN-118
Functions: Hours, minutes, date, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Khaki green fabric strap partly made from upcycled fishing nets; Khaki green rubber strap with black ceramic “Ulysse Nardin” element at 6 o’clock

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Ulysse Nardin boutiques and retailers starting May 2024.
Price: US$13,300 (excluding taxes)

Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skepeton OPS
Ref. 3723-170-2C/0A (fabric strap)
Ref. 3723-170-2C/3A (rubber strap)

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 15.7 mm
Material: Sandblasted & satin finished black DLC titanium finished case; Concave Carbonium® unidirectional rotating bezel with a domed sapphire glass; Black DLC titanium open sapphire case back
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. UN-372
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Khaki green fabric strap partly made from upcycled fishing nets; Khaki green rubber strap with black ceramic “Ulysse Nardin” element at 6 o’clock; Black ceramic and black PVD titanium deployant buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Ulysse Nardin boutiques and retailers starting May 2024.
Price: US$27,500 (excluding taxes)

For more, visit ulysse-nardin.com