Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) unveils a new variant of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World-Timer, combining an 18k pink gold case with a domed, champlevé enamel dial depicting the Northern Hemisphere.

As the name suggests, the watch features the cal. 948 with an orbital tourbillon that makes one revolution around the dial every 24 hours in conjunction with the map, mimicking the Earth’s orbit around the Sun. Dial and case metal aside, this is essentially identical to the white gold model released in 2022.

Initial thoughts

As a variation of an existing model, the new Calibre 948 World-Timer is not entirely novel. It is, however, a quite a stunning watch in both looks and mechanics.

The enamel dial and pink gold case are in a rich, complementary colours, resulting in a striking, warm aesthetics. And the level of execution is also high, reflecting JLC’s strength in industrial-artisanal high-end watchmaking.

That said, with JLC’s storied history, it feels like the brand can do more than rehash this tourbillon (and the Duometre as it did at Watches & Wonders earlier this year).

The watchmaker’s watchmaker

Sometimes known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker, JLC historically supplied calibres to many notable brands, including the “Holy Trinity” of Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin.

As a result, it has a manufacturing know-how that is amongst the best in the mid- to high-end of Swiss watchmaking. A world-time orbital tourbillon with a champlevé enamel dial, the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World-Timer reflects that.

Like many JLC complications, it has a rather large case that’s 43 mm in diameter and 14.13 mm tall. The 18k pink gold case is pleasantly bevelled between the lugs, curved at the end to hug the wearer’s wrist. The case, including the bezel, is mostly mirror-polished, except for the sides of the micro-blasted lugs.

The dial has a traditional Cottier-style world time display. The 24-hour ring on the periphery is fixed, while the cities ring can be set by the wearer to reflect the local time zone.

The flying tourbillon rotates on two axes: around its own axis every 60 seconds and also around the dial every 24 hours. The 24-hour rotation of the dial mimics the cycle of day and night, allowing the dial to function as a day and night indicator when read against the cities ring.

Subtly domed to echo the curve of the Earth, the dial is finished with miniature painting and champlevé enamel. The continents are in champlevé enamel, a technique that starts with the dial base being engraved to form the required motif, followed by painting the enamel in multiple layers, before firing at high temperatures. Underneath the domed map lies a wavy guilloché pattern covered with matching blue-green lacquer to represent the oceans.

The cal. 948 is displayed through the open case back. The world-time motif is echoed on the engraved full plate of the movement, which conceals most of the mechanics. The quality of the calibre is reflecting by the tourbillon that features a free-spring balance and Breguet overcoil hairspring. 

Key facts and price

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World-Timer
Ref. Q52824E1

Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 14.13 mm
Material: 18k pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 948
Functions: Hours, minutes, universal flying tourbillon, world-time display with 24-hour indication
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Dark green alligator strap with folding buckle

Limited edition: 20 pieces
Availability: Available at Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques and retailers starting May 2024.
Price: Price on request

For more, visit jaeger-lecoultre.com