Usually focused on decorative and artisanal dials made affordable, the Seiko Presage collection now turns to traditional textiles for inspiration. Comprising five models, the Presage Classic Series features textured dials in a range of discreet colours, each inspired by the textures and colours of Japanese silk. The dials are matched with a redesigned case conceived to feel thinner, along with retro-style bracelets.

Initial thoughts

Unusual dials inspired by Japanese culture and priced affordably are precisely the appeal of the Presage. The Classic Series carries on with this specialty.

The domed, silk-texture dials set them apart from similarly-priced watches. The SPB467, for instance, appears to have a fashionable salmon dial, but the fine texturing – inspired by araigaki (or “washed persimmon”) silk – distinguishes it from the competition. The texturing is finer than most dials in the same price range.

That said, there are actually two distinct dial patterns in the Classic Series (and four different colours across five references). Three are time-and-date models that are concise and elegant. The two “open heart” models, on the other hand, are not for everyone since the aperture revealing the balance wheel disrupts the aesthetics of the dial.

Besides the dial, the Classic Series also features a new case design that camouflages the height of the case with curved lugs and a thinner case middle. This is matched with a vintage-style bracelet that brings to mind old-school “beads of rice” bracelets.

Available only on a steel bracelet for now, the Classic Series starts at US$950 for time-and-date models, with the “open heart” costing US$175 for extra. Both versions are excellent value propositions as they bring refined dial patterns to a price range that ordinarily doesn’t allow for that.

Fine textile patterns

Something reminiscent of the patterned dials found on Grand Seiko watches, the dials of the Classic Series are meant to evoke silk (although they are not actually fabric). The time-and-date models, namely SPB463, SPB465, and SPB467, have a fine, seemingly random pattern inspired by woven silk.

The time-and-date models are available in shiro-iro (cream white), sensaicha (dark brown-green), and araigaki (bleached persimmon).

The “open heart” pair, SPB469 and SPB471, have dials with a radial finish modelled on raw silk yarn in shiro-iro (cream white) and sumi-iro (grey-black) respectively.

These reveal the balance wheel at a window at nine o’clock, while the sub-dial at six is a 24-hour indicator in sync with the hands.

Both models share the same case that measures 40.2 mm in diameter and 13 mm high. The dimensions are similar to past Presage models, but the case has been tweaked in both design and finish to create a thinner appearance. Aside from domed case back, the lugs also curve downwards.

The redesigned case is matched with bracelet modelled on 1970s bracelets, but with modern design details, including curved links that are alternately brushed and polished.

Both models are also equipped with variants of the same 6R series movement with a useful 72-hour power reserve. The time-and-date models contain the cal. 6R55 that is also found in a variety of other Presage models.

The “open heart” model, on the other hand, features the cal. 6R5J, which is essentially the same movement with the date replaced by a 24-hour display.

Key facts and price

Seiko Presage Classic Series 
Ref. SPB463 (shiro-iro)
Ref. SPB465 (sensaicha)
Ref. SPB467 (araigaki)

Diameter: 40.2 mm
Height: 13 mm
Material: Steel with super-hard coating
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 6R55
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Seiko boutiques and select retailers starting June 2024
Price: US$950

Key facts and price

Seiko Presage Classic Series 
Ref. SPB469 (shiro-iro)
Ref. SPB471 (sumi-iro)

Diameter: 40.2 mm
Height: 13 mm
Material: Steel with super-hard coating
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 6R5J
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and 24-hour indicator
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Seiko boutiques and select retailers starting June 2024
Price: US$1,125

For more information, visit Seikowatches.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Seiko.

Correction March 12, 2024: The Classic Series is made up of five references with four different dial colours, and not five colours as indicated in an earlier version of the article.