Tudor’s release on September 14th lived up to the anticipation, particularly for enthusiasts who appreciate vintage-inspired design. The Pelagos FXD ref. 25717N is a variant of the model developed together with the French navy and shares the same specs, including a 42 mm titanium case. But the new FXD “Single Red” pays homage to the brand’s historical affiliation with the US Navy, which turned to Tudor for military-issue timepieces starting in 1950s.

Initial thoughts

While this may be fairly unsurprising given the nature of Tudor’s catalogue, the new FXD is well executed and ticks all the right boxes for those who love military-inspired tool watches. The no-nonsense black dial with the “single red” marking instantly evokes well-known dive watches of the 1970s.

The watch itself is not new. It’s essentially identical to the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” from in 2021, but with black dial and bezel that gives it a more purposeful look. It’s a predictable evolution of the model given Tudor’s emphasis on its historical ties with navies and other professional organisations.

Like the original FXD in blue, this has a clean dial that allows the design to be unobstructed. Notably, the designers should be commending for going with pure white Super-Luminova on this, instead of faux-vintage lume that might have looked too affected. However, its designers could have been even more striking by dialling back the text on the dial even more, perhaps having just the “single red” line at six o’clock.

Price-wise this costs exactly the same as the blue Pelagos FXD, which is US$4,150. Tudor has made a name for itself in affordable watches that demonstrate their it value clearly and this is no different; it offers a great option in this segment.

Now in black

The first-ever Tudor dive watch arrived in 1954 with the introduction of Submariner ref. 7922 that water-resistant to 100 m. The brand’s history in military-issue dive watches began not long after, when the Tudor Submariner endured rigorous testing and earned the distinction of being official adopted by the US Navy in 1958. Amongst the features of military-issue Tudor Submariners were fixed bars for the strap, instead of conventional spring bars.

More recently, the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” of 2021 further cemented Tudor’s legacy in timekeeping for elite naval units. The model was conceived in collaboration with the Marine Nationale, and versions of the watch are currently issued to members of Commando Hubert, the navy’s elite combat diver unit.

The original Pelagos FXD in blue

Though has remained mum if this is officially issued to any military unit, the new Pelagos FXD pays tribute to this history, with “FXD” referencing its robust fixed bars that are integral to the case. Its black dial is a modern interpretation of the “Milsub” (short for “military Submariner”), specifically the late Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner of the late 1960s that was supplied to the US military, which specified features like fixed spring bars and crown guards.

The new FXD (left) with a vintage Tudor Milsub

Like the original FXD, the new Pelagos FXD stands out with its large-but-lightweight, all-matte titanium case that sits snug on the wrist thanks to the short lugs. It has a matte black dial showcases Tudor’s signature “Snowflake” hands and matching hour markers, all filled with white Super-Luminova that emits a vivid blue luminescence in low light.

A defining feature of the model its fixed lug bars that are integral to the case middle. This one-piece construction is for enhanced durability and reliability since traditional spring bars are the weakest link in the external components of a conventional case.

The distinctive silhouette is complemented by a one-piece fabric strap in forest green with a central red thread that’s inspired by the dive-webbing straps once used by navy divers. It’s secured by a “self-gripping fastening system” in Tudor parlance, which is otherwise known as Velcro. The watch also includes an one-piece strap that loops under the case in rubber that’s embossed with a fabric weave motif.

The new FXD has the same movement as its blue counterpart, the in-house MT5602. Assembled at Tudor’s state-of-the-art factory, the movement features the signature finish of Tudor manufacture calibres with the bridges and main plate featuring alternating sand-blasted and polished surfaces, enhanced by laser-engraved radial decoration around its periphery.

Designed for robustness, the MT5602 includes a variable inertia balance secured by a sturdy full bridge. A standout feature of the MT5602 is its “weekend-proof” power reserve of about 70 hours, allowing the watch to be set down for the weekend but still keeping time on Monday. 

With a non-magnetic silicon hairspring, the MT5602 is chronometer certified by COSC, though Tudor tests its movements internally to even tighter standards. While COSC allows for a daily variation of -4/+6 seconds and tests only uncased movements, Tudor’s own benchmark dictates a narrower range of -2/+4 seconds for fully assembled watches. 

Key facts and price

Tudor Pelagos FXD
Ref. 25717N

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.75 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: MT5602
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Fabric strap with Velcro closure, and additional black rubber strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Tudor boutiques and retailers
Price: US$4,150

For more, visit Tudorwatch.com.