Franck Muller’s latest venture into unorthodox case materials is a pair of watches with cases and dials in Damascus steel. Available only at the brand’s stores in Asia, the Vanguard “Damas” and “Damas Racing” retain the tonneau-shaped case of the brand’s bestseller but enhanced with the texture and depth of Damascus steel.

Initial thoughts 

The use of Damascus steel gives the Vanguard a new and appealing look. Because the model has been iterated numerous times, the Vanguard line is made up of an almost endless range of variants, but mostly in conventional metal alloys or carbon composite. The Damas models easily stand apart, making them instantly recognisable.  

The case metal is particularly suited to the skeletonised Damas Racing – the open-worked dial contrasts against the graining of the Damascus steel, making it a perfect complement to the case material. And its open-worked numerals in Damascus steel are an especially pleasing detail.

The Vanguard “Damas Racing”

Both Damas models, however, are pricey relative to other Franck Muller offerings. The Vanguard “Damas” costs just over US$13,000 (and the open-worked model is almost double), making it twice as expensive as a comparable time-only Vanguard in a conventional steel case.

That’s true even compared to the competition. The Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet, which features a similar case material, costs about the same as the open-worked Vanguard “Damas Racing”, but it’s a chronograph instead of being just time only.

Damascus steel 

Widely used in custom knives and high-end cutlery, Damascus steel is actually patterned-welded steel, which is an alloy with its constituent layers visible, resulting in the signature graining of the material. “Damascus steel” is actually a modern-day nickname for such alloys.

True Damascus steel, as it was known in the ancient world, referred to a particular type of alloy forged in the Near East that was legendary for its sharpness. The recipe for true Damascus steel has long been lost, resulting in modern equivalents like Damasteel, a stainless alloy that is forged in Sweden.

The pair of new Vanguard models are undoubtedly made from a pattern welded alloy of stainless steels, although Franck Muller doesn’t disclose the specific source of the material. It does reveal the material is made up of two steel alloys, explaining the distinctive woodgrain pattern on the surface. The high-contrast pattern is the result of acid etching as the constituent alloys react different to acid.

Presented in the lug-less Vanguard case, the Damas makes its debut with two versions: the open-worked Vanguard “Damas Racing” that is based on the Vanguard Racing Skeleton; and Vanguard “Damas”, a three-hander derived from the entry-level Vanguard. Both share the same watch measuring 42.5 mm by 52.7 mm that is 12.6 mm high.

The base-model Damas utilises the FM 800-DT, the brand’s workhorse in-house movement. On the other hand, the Damas Racing is powered by the FM 2800-SQ, which is essentially a skeletonised ETA 2892.

Key facts and price

Franck Muller Vanguard “Damas”
Ref. V 43 SC DT DAMAS (NR)

Diameter: 42.5 mm by 52.7 mm
Height: 12.6 mm
Material: Damascus steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. FM 800-DT
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Leather-covered rubber strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: Only at Franck Muller boutiques and retailers in Asia
Price: 17,900 Singapore dollars (equivalent to US$13,400)

Franck Muller Vanguard “Damas Racing”
Ref. V 43 SC DT RCG SQT DAMAS (NR)

Diameter: 42.5 mm by 52.7 mm
Height: 12.6 mm
Material: Damascus steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. FM 2800-SQ01
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Leather-covered rubber strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: Only at Franck Muller boutiques and retailers in Asia
Price: 34,100 Singapore dollars (equivalent to US$25,600)

For more, visit Franckmuller.com