Undoubtedly the most technically interesting movement in a time-only Royal Oak, the skeletonised cal. 3132 with twin balance wheels made its debut in a discreet package in 2016. It got fancier attire more recently with a gem-set “rainbow” bezel and hammered case finish, but only with the smaller, 37 mm case.

Now “rainbow” meets mechanics in the 41 mm case for the first time – in all three colours of gold no less. Extravagant but surprisingly not that exorbitant in price, the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked 41 mm combines the largest-sized case with a multicoloured bezel, and most importantly, the twin-oscillator movement.

Initial thoughts

A unique combination of bling and technical credentials is precisely the appeal of the new Double Balance. Currently fashionable and maybe too common, the multi-coloured gemstone bezel is over the top but it is cool. The movement, on the other hand, is smart.

The calibre relies on twin balance wheels, each with its own hairspring, to average out positional errors and improve stability, making for better timekeeping over the long run.

This mix of sparkly excess and mechanical achievement is rare, which sets the watch apart from its peers. So if you’re someone who likes “rainbow” watches, this is one of the few that has strong technical merit.

And it’s priced at about US$120,000, which is definitely a square deal for such a watch. The only downside is the pronounced lack of availability, which means a massive premium-to-retail on the secondary market.

Assuming you can land one, the white or yellow gold versions are the most appealing. Both colours go well with the rainbow bezel – the white has greater contrast – while the pink gold model is overly pink.

From left: The 41 mm version in yellow, white, and pink gold

Frosting and rainbows

The octagonal bezel is set with 32 baguette-cut gemstones of 12 different variations, including ruby, emerald, and sapphires in a range of colours.

The bright colours and finish of the bezel contrast against the granular, “diamond dust” case finish. It was inspired by a traditional hammered technique used by the city’s craftsmen, where a diamond-tipped graver removes tiny amounts of gold to create minuscule pivots on the case surface.

Developed together with a Florentine jeweller and debuted in 2016 on a ladies’ Royal Oak, the “Frosted” finish is now employed across the Royal Oak line, but mostly for ladies’ watches, making this 41 mm uncommon (though it’s couched as a unisex watch).

The calibre within is the cal. 3132, which is based on the workhorse cal. 3120. Its key feature is the double balance wheel secured by a full bridge visible at eight o’clock on the dial.

Both the balance bridge and wheels are plated to match the case colour, while the rest of the movement has been skeletonised in a geometric fashion and finished in the clean, precise style typical of AP.

Installing the double balances into the cal. 3132

The cal. 3132

Movement livery

The cal. 3132 in the 41 mm model is coated in NAC, giving it a dark grey finish that contrasts with the case and bezel. On the other hand, the movement in the 37 mm versions is plated in the same colour of gold as the case.

The tone-on-tone movement leaves the technical aesthetics less apparent, and instead makes the rainbow bezel the key visual element – an outcome that makes sense given that the smaller model will likely be a jewellery watch for ladies.

The two new 37 mm additions in pink and yellow gold join the white gold model that has already been in the catalogue for several years.

The 37 mm model in pink gold (left), and yellow gold

Key facts and price

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked 41 mm
Ref. 15412OR.YG.1224OR.01-A (pink gold)
Ref. 15412BA.YG.1224BA.01-A (yellow gold)
Ref. 15412BC.YG.1224BC.03-A (white gold)

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 10 mm
Material: 18k pink, yellow or white gold with hammered finish
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 3132

Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Matching 18k gold bracelet

Availability: Starting October 2021 at boutiques only
Price: 118,500 Swiss francs before taxes

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37 mm
Ref. 15468OR.YG.1259OR.01-A (pink gold)
Ref. 15468BA.YG.1259BA.01-A (yellow gold)

Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 10 mm
Material: 18k pink or yellow gold with hammered finish
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 3132
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Matching 18k gold bracelet

Availability: Starting October 2021 at boutiques only
Price: Unavailable

For more, visit Audemarspiguet.com.