Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia was the guest on our first-ever Instagram Live, where he spoke with our founder SJX. Lighthearted and insightful, the session centred on the growth of Akrivia’s in-house capabilities, as well as the future of the Chronomètre Contemporain series. Here’s a recap of the highlights from the session.
Ambitions for integration
Rexhep has big dreams for Akrivia as a true manufacture, from production to even testing. This stems from an explicit desire to control every element of production, and to ensure his high standards at met every step of the way.
Much of the progress made in vertical integration will be reflected in the second series of the Chronomètre Contemporain. While the series one cases were produced by a Geneva specialist, the second series will have its cases made in-house by master case maker Jean-Pierre Hagmann, who joined Akrivia last year.
At the same time, Rexhep said the movement will have a greater share of parts made in-house. While the exactly proportion was unsaid, he made clear that his goal was to eventually make all key parts – bridges, base plates, wheels and pinions – in the Akrivia workshop. Beyond production timepieces, such vertical integration will be advantageous as it would allow Akrivia to prototype ideas far more quickly.
Rexhep Rexhepi with Jean-Pierre Hagmann. Photo – Akrivia
Interestingly, Rexhep also touched on chronometer testing and certification. The first series Chronomètre Contemporain is tested at the Besançon Observatory in France as standard.
Although Rexhep admits that having an independent body that sees thing from a different perspective testing the function of Akrivia watches is something he appreciates, Rexhep mentioned the possibility of one day conducting his own testing.
The Chronomètre Contemporain to come
The Chronomètre Contemporain was the watch that made Rexhep and Akrivia a star. And with Rexhep already having stated that it will be followed by a second model, many have been wondering how the watch will evolve. Almost everyone expected the second series to be based on the first, with a movement that is derived from the original.
But Rexhep made it clear that the second series is actually going to be powered by an entirely new calibre. As he explained it, he intended to add a complication to the first series movement, but the performance of the modified movement was unsatisfactory, so he chucked all of it and started from scratch.
The cal. RR-01 inside the first series
So the second series movement is entirely different from the first, even having twin barrels instead of just one as the first did. In a sketch he showed during the chat, Rexhep pointed out the twin barrels – and most crucially, twin going trains.
Though he didn’t specify the added complication, one can speculate it is something fairly energy intensive – meaning a mechanism with frequent or recurring motion – since an additional barrel was needed. The new movement will, however, retain the symmetrical look that is characteristic of Akrivia movements.
Because the movement is wholly new and more complicated, Rexhep did let on the second series will be priced higher than the first, though he stated it would still be reasonably priced for what it is, as many aficionados regard the first series to be. Rexhep hopes to be able to unveil the second series in early 2021.
AK evolution
Rexhep also touched on the AK series, the Akrivia collection with a more contemporary design.
While the hand-hammered finish has become something of an Akrivia trademark, Rexhep also mentioned he was working on new decorative techniques for dials, perhaps destined for the AK series.
He also noted a redesigned AK series case is in the works, though it will have a similar aesthetic language as the current series.
The AK-06
Questions from readers
Before the Instagram Live session, readers submitted questions for Rexhep, and he answered many of them.
When asked if Akrivia will ever make a line of entry-level watches, Rexhep’s response was a resounding no. It will not happen because he desired for a high-quality watch makes that impossible.
Another question was whether a chronograph or automatic movement was in Akrivia’s future. Rexhep said that he is not interested in an automatic movement, but he loves the chronograph complication, hinting that maybe one day he will give it some thought and attention.
Rexhep was asked to list a few independent watch brands that he respects and finds interesting. Rexhep singled out Philippe Dufour, Voutilainen, De Bethune, and F.P. Journe (where he had worked for a few years before starting Akrivia). He loves that each of these brand has its own aesthetic and technical aspects that can be appreciated and learnt from.
More notably, he declared that the ultimate goal for Akrivia is to one day be as innovative as F.P. Journe, but boasting movement decorations like Philippe Dufour.
A Singapore-based “micro brand”, Zelos Watches has found success with affordable sports watches, mostly priced at about US$1,000 or less, but often incorporating unusual materials such as carbon fibre or meteorite.
But in a significant departure from its usual fare, Zelos has just unveiled the Mirage, a flying tourbillon powered by a calibre made by a noted Swiss movement maker La Joux-Perret. With the case options including Timascus and mokume-gane, which are pattern-welded titanium and bronze respectively, the Mirage certainly sticks to the brand’s design ethos of exotic materials.
Initial thoughts
While it’s not surprising that the Mirage is substantially more expensive than Zelos’ past models, it is still good value for a watch featuring both a respectable tourbillon movement and an exotic-metal case. The case is sleek and modern, machined to create sharp, wide facets that give it an aggressive stance and complement the contemporary look of the movement.
Of the three case materials on offer, the Timascus versions are the most intriguing. Typically found in high-end custom knives, Timascus is being used in a watch for the first time according to Zelos.
Flying tourbillon
In terms of complications, the Mirage is a radical departure from the brand’s previous offerings. Powered by a skeletonised flying tourbillon movement from La Joux-Perret, the Mirage enters the realm of technical horology. The movement is hand-wound, with its bridges and base plate coated black and finished with circular graining on top.
Like the similarly affordable Horage tourbillon that’s equipped with the same base movement, the calibre in the Mirage has a gear train designed to sit alongside the tourbillon cage rather than below, as is convention. The construction allows the watch to be a surprisingly slim 9.5 mm, excluding the crystal, and also provides a better view of the tourbillon from front and back.
A transparent sapphire dial shows off the depth and details of the skeletonised movement – with the tourbillon sitting in an aperture in the sapphire dial – while also creating the illusion of floating hands indices and hour markers, explaining the “mirage” moniker.
Case materials
The 41 mm case is available in titanium, Timascus and mokume-game – with each having hands and hour markers in the same colour as the case.
The most conventional of the trio is titanium, which is rendered in its natural grey, monochromatic state. Though titanium is common in watches generally, the minority of the Mirage run will be in the metal, only two of the ten in titanium.
Timascus, on the other hand, is pattern-welded titanium. Essentially a stronger titanium alloy, timascus is produced by welded various piece of titanium alloys together, then folding and forging the billet – a process repeated multiple times to create an metal with an attractive wood-grain surface. The specific Timascus alloy used for the Mirage is offered in blue or yellow.
Yellow Timascus
Blue Timascus
Last is mokume-gane, a traditional Japanese metalworking technique that translates as “wood grain metal”. It’s essentially pattern-welded brass, and like Timascus, creating the alloy requires pressing or welding, and then folding, billets of different metal to create the striated surface.
The use of copper and nickel silver for the Mirage case results in a brown and silver wood-grain pattern, but the copper will acquire a patina over time, enhancing the contrast between the layers.
Mokume-gane of copper and nickel silver
Key facts and price
Zelos Mirage
Diameter: 41 mm Height: 11.5 mm Material: Titanium, timascus, or copper with silver alloy (mokume-gane) Crystal: Sapphire Water resistance: 50 m
Movement: LJP 7814 Functions: Hours, minutes and flying tourbillon Winding: Manual wind Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) Power reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Leather
Limitededition: Ten in total – two in titanium, three in Mokume-gane, and five in Timascus Availability: Direct from Zelos starting June 9 Price: US$10,900; or 15,400 Singapore dollars (titanium)
US$11,900; or 16,800 Singapore dollars (timascus/mokume-gane)
Jaquet Droz was historically renowned for elaborate and ornamental pocket watches, often decorated with enamel and pearls, reflecting the brand’s on the Chinese market, which demanded lavishly decorated timepieces. The brand’s newest pair of paillonné enamel wristwatches – the Fleur de Lys Grande Seconde Paillonnée and Fleur de Vie Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée – embody the brand’s past aesthetic sensibilities.
French for “spangled”, a reference to the tiny decorative pieces of gold foil that make up the pattern, paillonné enamelling has been a specialty of Jaquet Droz since its modern-day revival, starting with the very first Grande Seconde Paillonnée of 2004 that had a dial made by enamel artisan Anita Porchet. Jaquet Droz has since mastered the fine art of paillonné enamelling, with recent editions like the Paillonnée Enamel “Gold Arabesques” featuring dials made in its own workshops.
Initial thoughts
The new pair of paillonné enamel watches do not fail to impress with their vivid colours and patterns – gold paillons against translucent blue enamel over guilloché makes for a dynamic combination that immediately catches the eye. And up close, which is the best way to appreciate the enamelling, the gold paillons are tiny yet intricate and nuanced.
The ring circling the sub-dials on both watches is made of 18k red gold
Out of the two, I gravitate towards the Fleur de Vie due to its 35 mm case, which is fitting for a dress watch, especially compared to the significantly-larger 43 mm Fleur de Lys. I also love that the mother of pearl sub-dial as it adds an extra layer of complexity to the dial. The diamonds on the case and mother of pearl make it a ladies’ watch, but remove those and it would be a formal watch for men.
However, the blue strap creates too much blue in the watch, distracting from the dial. A black alligator strap would do better in emphasising the striking dial, which is the very combination found on the original series of paillonné enamel watches.
Fleur de Lys Grande Seconde Paillonnée
Fleur de Vie Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée
Paillonné enamel
Paillonné enamel is an esoteric craft even within the rarefied domains of enamelling. Individual paillons – dainty shapes cut from a thin gold leaf – are positioned by hand to form a repeating motif on a base already covered in fired, translucent enamel. The paillon pattern is then covered in further layers of enamel, and finally fired and polished.
For the dials of the Jaquet Droz watches, the base is a solid gold disc with radial guilloche. And unlike the first-generation paillonné enamel that uses antique, 19th century paillons, Jaquet Droz now produces its own paillons, allowing it to create a myriad range of paillonné patterns.
Consequently, both watches feature different paillons. The Grande Seconde Paillonnée is decorated with a repeating fleur-de-lis motif, while the Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée dial is covered in a pattern created by overlapping circles sometimes known as fleur de vie.
Both watches are powered by variants of the same calibre that was originally the double-barrel Frederic Piguet 1150, but now upgraded in various ways, including a silicon hairspring and pallet lever.
Key facts and price
Fleur de Lys Grande Seconde Paillonnée
Ref. J003033437
Diameter: 43 mm Height: 12.06 mm Material: Red gold Crystal: Sapphire Water resistance: 30 m
Movement: 2663.P Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds Winding: Self-winding Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) Power reserve: 68 hours
Strap: Blue alligator
Limitededition: Eight pieces Availability: Now at boutiques Price: 67,000 Singapore dollars, or about US$47,000
Fleur de Vie Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée
Ref. J005003244
Diameter: 35 mm Height: 10.8 mm Material: Red gold with diamonds Crystal: Sapphire Water resistance: 30 m
Movement: 2653.P Functions: Hours and minutes Winding: Self-winding Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) Power reserve: 68 hours
Strap: Blue alligator
Limitededition: Eight pieces Availability: Now at boutiques Price: 71,000 Singapore dollars, or about US$50,000
First scheduled for April 2020 to coincide with the twin events Baselworld and Watches & Wonders – how the world of watch fairs changed since then – Geneva Watch Days was postponed to August 2020 after life was halted by the COVID-19 pandemic. But now the event has been confirmed for late August 2020, making it the only “multi-brand watch event in Switzerland” according to its organisers.
With eight brands taking part, and perhaps more to come, Geneva Watch Days will be made up of a series of separate events across Geneva – with the central reception desk at the lakeside Four Seasons Hotel – with each brand essentially doing its own thing. Only a handful of evening events will see all the attendees gather, but only as far as Swiss government’s public health regulations allow.
But in many respects the event aims to be similar to Baselworld, being catered for the trade – namely retailers and press – rather than the public. Visitors have to register in advance, as well as make appointments with brands to see the latest watches.
Bulgari, Breitling, De Bethune, Gerald Genta, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie., MB&F, Ulysse Nardin, and Urwerk have all confirmed their participation at Geneva Watch Days. The event will take place August 26-29, 2020, at various locations across Geneva. To register as an attendee, visit Gva-watch-days.com.
Gerald Genta is enjoying something of a renaissance now, with the frenzied demand for his most famous designs. And now one of his more obscure designs is making a comeback.
One of the most acclaimed and prolific watch designers, Genta’s heyday in the 1970s and 1980s saw him design a host of iconic watches, including the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus. After his eponymous brand was acquired by Bulgari in the year 2000, Genta founded another brand named after his first and middle names – Gerald Charles.
Though Gerald Charles went dormant after Genta’s death in 2011, the brand has been revived on its 20th anniversary by Genta’s former business partner. The inaugural launch is its first stainless steel watch – the Maestro Anniversary, which is distinctive, eccentric, and very much reflective of Genta’s late-career style. And 30% of the proceeds from each Maestro sold will to donated to the COVID-19 fund set up by the World Health Organisation (WHO).
Initial thoughts
I like Genta’s designs, and I like the Maestro. It is a unique case that manages to draw a balance between being sporty and elegant – an endearing trait that I find common amongst Genta’s designs. The new Maestro keeps the dial functional and simple, and adds a pattern rubber strap to the mix, giving it a casual yet distinctive look.
But at over US$9,600, the price is too steep, especially in light of the Soprod-based movement inside. The hefty, 30% donation to the WHO’s COVID-19 Solidarity Response Fund, however, does mitigate that.
The Maestro
Genta’s designs have always been appealing in their unconventionality, with the watches he penned towards the end of the career being the most unorthodox, including those made by Gerald Charles. The brand was established with the help of his longtime Italian agent, Giampaolo Ziviani, whose grandson Federico is now leading the revival of Gerald Charles.
Designed by Genta in 2006, the Maestro was the signature design of Gerald Charles. With an asymmetrical shape that’s a cross between a square and an octagon, it is multi-faceted and three-dimensional. The case is steel and a large 42 mm in diameter, with an entirely polished finish.
Made of rubber in a first for the Maestro, the strap is moulded with a pyramid motif that evokes the textures of the stacked, pyramidal grand complication watches made by Gerald Genta in the 1990s. It complements with the case well, accentuating the sculptural look of the case.
The dial is plain, with oversized Arabic numerals at the quarters – as well as baton markers and hands that are reminiscent of the hands used on the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Notably, the branding on the dial is relatively discreet, and the large, circular Gerald Charles logo of old is absent.
The Maestro is powered by the cal. GCA131-9391, which is actually a variant of the Soprod A10, a movement that is also found in less expensive watches. Hence, the US$9,630 price tag is too high.
While the production run is small, and the design is unique, the pricing is also perhaps an attempt to capitalise on the popularity of Genta’s 1970s luxury-sports watch designs. However, Genta fans will probably find the Maestro alone worthy of the price of admission, as a one-of-a-kind work of design and not just an automatic watch.
The Soprod A10-based movement
A big date display at six o’clock
The Maestro Anniversary will be limited to only 252 pieces – one for each month since brand’s founding until December 2020. Each watch will be engraved with the unique month-year combination as a serial number.
Key facts and price
Gerald Charles Maestro Anniversary
Ref. GC19-00A
Diameter: 42 mm Material: Stainless steel Crystal: Sapphire Water resistance: 100 m
Movement: GCA131-9391 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and big date Winding: Self-winding Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) Power reserve: 42 hours
Strap: Rubber
Availability: Now at retailers or direct from Gerald Charles Price: US$9,630
Krayon made its debut in 2017 with the Everywhere, an incredibly complex wristwatch that was, in essence, a mechanical calculator for sunrise and sunset. Founded by movement constructor Rémi Maillat in 2013, Krayon has debuted the follow up to the Everywhere, the simpler, sleeker – and a lot more affordable – Anywhere.
Like its bigger brother, the Anywhere displays the time of sunrise and sunset. But while the Everywhere allowed the wearer to input his location and time zone for the watch to show local sunrise and sunset times everywhere, the Anywhere displays sunrise and sunset times for a single, fixed location, albeit one that can be quite easily changed by a watchmaker. Despite while the complication has been streamlined, the movement has been upgraded in terms of finishing, which is now exceptional.
The Anywhere in white gold
Initial thoughts
The Anywhere is surprising in person. Given the complexity of the movement, you’d expect a large watch with a fussy display. But the Anywhere is modestly sized – the thinness of the case stands out – giving it an elegant profile on the wrist.
At the same time, the dial layout is simple and intuitive, making it easy to understand. And it is also easy to operate, with the calendar and time both set via the crown. And the calendar, in turn, controls the sunrise and sunset function, so the interface is straightforward.
Turn it over and the movement is also surprising. While the movement in the Everywhere was a mechanical masterpiece, its decoration was fine but not special.
The Anywhere, on the other hand, has been decorated to a far-higher level, and the superior finish is obvious even at a distance. Up close, the movement stands up to scrutiny, even though the watch pictured is a prototype. That said, the movement design is peculiar; the bridges are large and oddly, though they have been purposefully designed that way (more on that later).
Although the Anywhere only shows sunrise and sunset times for a single location, it’s an reasonable and practical compromise. Not only does it do away with the excessively complex setting process required for the Everywhere, the compromise also means the Anywhere is vastly more affordable.
At a bit under US$100,000 for the steel version, the Anywhere is a sixth of what the Everywhere cost. While hardly a bargain, the price is more than fair for the complication and finishing.
The Everywhere, here with a bezel set with baguette diamonds
Variants of the Anywhere, in rose gold and white gold
What it does
The Anywhere indicates sunrise and sunset times via rings on the periphery of the dial. Sitting one level below the main dial, the rings are light and dark for daytime and nighttime respectively. The length of the light and dark segments are physical representations of the length of the day and night, with the borders between the two indicating sunrise and sunset.
The display above indicates sunrise takes place at about 6 am, while sunset is at 7 pm
Sunrise will place at about 6:10 am according to the display
Because the length of the day changes according to the seasons in most of the world, the size of the segments will vary throughout the year, and the borders will move as the length of the day changes. The seasonality of sunrise and sunset times explains the calendar display at six o’clock – setting the calendar moves the light and dark rings, reflecting the changing length of the day throughout the year.
In the northern hemisphere, nights will be long during the winter months, leading to a large dark segment. While at the equator, day and night are almost equal in length all the time, so the light and dark segments will each occupy about half the dial and remain mostly unchanged throughout the year.
Sunset at about 6:25 pm
Up close the layers of the rings can be discerned
A Sun-shaped pointer on the edge of the dial is a 24-hour indicator, while also functioning as a display of the motion of the Sun. When the Sun pointer crosses the border from light to dark segment, it means the Sun has set.
But unlike the Everywhere that could be adjusted for any location on Earth, the Anywhere can only show sunrise and sunset times for one location. Though the location can be changed easily via a series of adjustment screws in the movement, a watchmaker has to open the watch and make the change.
Displayed concisely
Even though a lot of information is displayed on the dial, legibility and order have been preserved. The dial is laid out symmetrically and sensibly. The sunrise and sunset indicators are extremely easy to read, though the calendar takes more effort.
The date track is squeezed on a small sub-dial, but the numerals are large and easy enough to figure out. The month indicator, however, takes a bit more thought. The month hand moves continuously throughout the month, so each month is a segment on the scale, rather than a specific point. To help things along, the segment for the last month of calendar quarter is spelled out.
Simple in style, the dial is nonetheless of good quality. The stamped guilloche is neatly done, but the highlights are the hands and hour markers, both modelled on the shape of the three-pointed “Y” logo of Krayon.
Fairly substantial in thickness, the hands are entirely mirrored polished. The hour markers, in contrast, have frosted flanks separated by a mirrored “Y”, no doubt accomplished by cutting with a diamond-tipped tool, explaining the sharp edges.
And in the Sun-shaped pointer is rendered in a similar style. The central half circle of the Sun is frosted, while the rays are mirrored; that is done with a two-piece pointer made up of a lower section with the rays topped by the frosted disc.
The finish of the hour markers is impressive, but they are too short and sharp for the overall style of the watch, and more specifically, the elongated hands. Longer hour indices that echo the shape of the hands would have made more aesthetic sense. Conversely, the markings on the sunrise and sunset chapter ring look unnecessarily large, and would look better scaled down.
Note the contrasting finish on the individual hour markers
Vichet-esque
Measuring 39 mm by 9.5 mm, the case looks smaller than it is, which is rare for a highly-complicated watch.
The case is properly detailed, despite its simple form. The bezel is concave, which emphasises the size of the face, while the top and bottom faces of the case band have a subtle bevel where each meets the bezel and back.
Most notably, the lugs have wide, concave fluting on their outer edges, bringing to mind the watch cases made by Emile Vichet for Patek Philippe, which were the inspiration for the Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain case.
Overall, the case is well designed, while maintaining a strong element of simplicity. It doesn’t try to do too much, which is the prudent thing to do given that there’s a lot going on elsewhere.
Simplifying the complex
Having spent the bulk of his career developing movements for Cartier’s Fine Watchmaking collection, Krayon founder Mr Maillat is skilled at building highly-complicated movements. The cal. C030 in the Anywhere is made up of over 430 components, making it comparable to the 465-part L001.1 inside the A. Lange & Söhne Double Split.
The cal. C030 is a large, 35.4 mm movement that properly fills the 39 mm watch case. Though similar in function, the cal. C030 was conceived with a different philosophy compared to its more complex predecessor in the Everywhere.
The movement in the Everywhere was basically a calculator – input the latitude, longitude and time zone to see sunrise and sunset times – hence the moniker, Universal Sunrise Sunset (USS) calibre. In contrast, the cal. C030 of the Anywhere is more straightforward.
While sharing from same basic architecture as the USS, the cal. C030 in the Anywhere does away with the input and adjustment mechanisms, significantly simplified the mechanics. At the same time, it raises the quality and detail of the movement decoration by a large, obvious margin.
The cal. C030 in the Anywhere
The movement is logically laid out, with the key bits separated into two distinct halves.
Hidden under a large barrel bridge, the top half is dedicated to the going train for timekeeping, which transmits power from the mainspring to the escapement. It’s constructed in a fairly classical manner, with a barrel that is approximately half the diameter of the movement, providing robust torque as well as a longish 86-hour power reserve.
The barrel drives a conventional second wheel, located at the movement’s centre under an extra-large jewel, which turns the minute hand. The rest of the going train as well as the escapement is also enclosed in the upper half, leaving the rest of the space for the sunrise and sunset mechanism.
Sunrise and sunset
The lower half of the movement is where things get interesting. While complex and unfamiliar at a first glance, the principles of the sunrise and sunset mechanism can be understood quite easily since all of the key components of the mechanism are exposed.
As sunrise and sunset times vary over the year, the simplest means of displaying the information is a rotating cam that makes one revolution once every year. The shape of the cam needs to be “read” mechanically in order for its shaped to be translated into the dial display of sunrise and sunset times.
As the centrepiece of the sunrise and sunset mechanism, the cam takes centre stage in the cal. C030. Elaborately constructed, the cam looks the part – the heart of a complex contraption – but is actually mechanically simple, and slow moving. The cam makes one full rotation over a year, pushing against U-shaped sliding racks as it does so.
The cam, with the U-shaped racks next to it
Because the cam has two levels, the U-shaped racks are also a pair, arranged on two corresponding levels, one each for sunrise and sunset times. Sunrise and sunset times vary at different rates throughout the year, a consequence of the Earth’s oblique and eccentric orbit around the Sun, meaning the racks for each need to move at different rates, hence the two levels.
The phenomenon is also known as equation of time, which charts the difference between apparent solar time based on the Earth’s orbit and the 24-hour day of mean solar time. Though the Anywhere does not display the equation of time, the information is mechanically encoded into the cams for sunrise and sunset.
The rotation of the cam cause the U-shaped racks push against the bow-shaped sunrise and sunset racks, each secured by a tension spring. The tips of each bow-shaped rack drive the sunrise and sunset pinions respectively, which in turn move the sunrise and sunset rings on the dial.
As the U-shaped racks are pushed by the cam towards the edge of the case, the light-coloured daytime rings increase in length, reflecting the longer days during the summer, and vice versa for the winter, when the cam moves towards the centre of the movement.
Though both sets of racks are constructed on two levels, they are symmetrical. Beyond the pleasing aesthetics, this ensures both the sunrise and sunset rings move correctly, which is in opposite directions. In comparison, the USS movement of the Everywhere contained racks that pivot asymmetrically on the same side, hence move in the same direction, due to the differential gears required by its location setting mechanisms.
The symmetrical configuration of the racks in the Anywhere movement
The asymmetrically-arranged racks in the Everywhere
Also worth noting is the fact that the eccentric cams in both the Everywhere and Anywhere movements take 372 days to make a full revolution – not exactly a 365-day year.
The reason is the simple calendar mechanism used in both movements, which has a default 31 days for every month, requiring manual adjustment for shorter months. Because the cam is mechanically linked to the month hand on the dial, the cam is calibrated for 12 months of 31 days each, which is 372 days.
Setting sunrise and sunset
But sunrise and sunset times differ according to locations – the fundamental premise of the complication inside the Everywhere, which allowed the wearer to adjust the watch for any specific location.
The most important determining factor for sunrise and sunset times is latitude. Because the Earth rotates on a tilted axis – imagine a spinning top that’s about to topple over – variations in sunrise and sunset times over the year get more extreme as you move further away from the equator. That’s why countries away from the equator have seasons that change throughout the year – the changing amount of sunlight received means the Earth’s temperature changes.
In contrast, sunrise and sunset times at the equator are almost static over the year, with the length of the day and night being almost identical as well – explaining the unchanging tropical weather of equatorial countries.
Comparison of sunrise times over a year between two cities on the west coast of Africa: Libreville (lat. 0.4° N) and Dakar (lat. 14.7° N). Source – Wikipedia.
Displaying seasonal sunrise and sunset times at different latitudes would seem to call for separate cams for each latitude – a feasible, but tedious solution. Mr Maillat hit on a much simpler approach – tweaking the eccentricity of the cam, or its position relative to the centre of its area of movement.
The two-level sunrise and sunset cam sits on a pair of parallel tracks, allowing it to slide along the length of the tracks. The cam can be adjusted to sit dead centre along the tracks, which is the position for locations at the equator with no seasonal changes.
At higher latitudes, on the other hand, the cam has to be moved outwards in either direction. As the cam is positioned further out, its rotation will cause an greater magnitude of movement in the racks. Put simply, the further the cam is from the centre, the more the racks will slide, which reflects the greater variation of sunrise and sunset times as latitude increases.
Set when the movement is assembled, the eccentricity of the cam can subsequently be changed minutely via a micrometer screw, but only by a watchmaker. Because the location setting was designed to be adjustable, a watchmaker can change the eccentricity of the cam in a fairly quick procedure without having to replace any parts.
The micrometre screw for adjusting cam eccentricity
But the watchmaker has to do more than change the position of the cam, as sunrise and sunset times are also determined by longitude and time zone, since a country’s practical time zone may differ from its geographical time zone. The entirety of China, for instance, runs on Beijing Time (GMT+8), despite the country actually spanning five geographical time zones. As a result, Easternmost China sees sunrise five hours ahead of its westernmost point, despite both places showing the same time on the clock.
The Anywhere also accounts for this via correction screws on the bridges to the left and right of the cam, which similarly can only be adjusted by a watchmaker. Set in a jewelled bearing and friction-fitted onto a shaft, each screw directly turns the wheels that drive the sunrise and sunset discs. The collet of the shaft is marked with a scale, with each hashmark translating into a change of 15 minutes for the sunrise and sunset times.
One of the adjustment screws with the graduated collet around it
Though not user-adjustable, the mechanism of the Anywhere is significantly simpler than the complicated set-up employed in the Everywhere, which allows the wearer to make adjustments via a complex “tower” of gears consisting of two differentials. All of that brought the part count of the Everywhere movement to 595.
Despite the simplifications, the Anywhere movement still boasts an impressive 432 parts. A good number of that is down to the large number of jewels used for the levers and racks, and the intricate construction of the eccentric cam.
Finishing
The simplified movement in the Anywhere allows for more visual expression in terms of decoration. And the opportunity has been used well, with decoration that is done very, very well.
To start with, the movement is hand-wound, freeing up a good amount of real estate for finishing. And in the manner of The Da Vinci Code, Mr Maillat has incorporated hidden meaning into the decorative patterns.
The jagged outline of the barrel bridge is an approximation of a section of shore of Lake Neuchâtel, while the wave-shaped Cotes de Geneve reproduces a graph of sunrise times in Neuchâtel over the year. While I appreciate the reference to Neuchâtel, a town very much steeped in the history of watchmaking and Krayon’s home, both decorative elements look odd to my eye.
Lakeshore outline in anglage
But the movement still looks good, because the finishing is done to an extremely high standard. The anglage, for instance, is generously wide, rounded and plentiful, while also included numerous sharply angled inward and outward angles. The same can be said for the bowl-shaped countersinks for the jewels and screws. Even the teeth of the barrel ratchet wheel are neatly mirror polished.
Polished teeth on the barrel ratchet wheel
The crucial sunrise and sunset mechanism is given appropriate treatment. The cam is strikingly shaped and finished, with anglage on its outer edges and a combination of polished and brushed surface on its top. Similarly, the racks are straight grained on top, with wide, polished bevels on the edges that include sharp, outward corners.
The movement also features lots of classical detail, including the black-polished, ratchet-style winding click, the kidney-shaped Geneva-style stud carrier on the balance cock, and the black-polished cap for the escape wheel jewel.
The Geneve-style stud carrier, albeit with a flat hairspring
The black-polished steel cap next to the balance wheel
The black-polished winding click
A handful of elements are missing, however, in part because this is a prototype movement. For instance, the visible wheels of the going train lack chamfered spokes and inner edges. And the fit between steel cap and the escape wheel cock isn’t exactly seamless.
Concluding thoughts
Watches equipped with esoteric, highly-complicated functions are often confusing and large. The Anywhere manages to be the opposite. It’s handsome, wearable and easy to use. Though I would change some elements of the dial design, like the shape of the hour markers, generally the design works well.
And just as important is the movement finishing, which is excellent. That makes the Anywhere unusual, because watches with such complications aren’t unusual highly finished, and highly-finished watches are typically time-only or tourbillons.
Priced at 96,000 Swiss francs in steel, the Anywhere is a smartly constructed and finely finished, and reasonably priced.
A marque revived via a crowdfunded effort in 2015, Czapek & Cie. has just announced its first sports watch, the Antarctique. The popularity of luxury-sports watches in steel makes that unsurprising, but the Antarctique is powered by a newly-developed, automatic movement with an interesting construction.
Initial thoughts
Doubtlessly conceived to cater to the current fad for luxury-sports watches in steel, the Antarctique is unsurprising in terms of design. While the overall look is reminiscent of a variety of watches, most notably the earlier-generation Girard-Perregaux Laureato, it manages to be different enough, in particularly with the C-shaped links.
But more important and interesting is the movement inside, the SXH5. It was conceived by a team that includes prominent constructors like Emmanuel Bouchet, an independent watchmaker who is probably best known for the Harry Winston Opus 12, as well as Daniel Martinez, an independent constructor who worked at Sellita, MCT, and Greubel Forsey in the past.
The SXH5
A large movement with high-quality features, the SXH5 has an interesting aesthetic that’s slightly inspired by vintage pocket watch movements but is clearly modern. And going by the photos, it also appears to be well finished.
But the Antarctique is expensive – its price tag of US$18,900 is almost exactly the same as that of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding. While the Antarctique probably has a more compelling and unusual movement, the Czapek brand has yet to live up to such pricing.
Bringing Czapek back
Czapek & Cie. is named after a brand founded by Franciszek Czapek, a Polish watchmaker who moved to Geneva in the early 19th century. His historical claim to fame was being the first business partner of fellow Pole, Antoni Norbert Patek. Together the two set up Patek, Czapek & Cie., a short-lived venture that last six years. In 1845, Patek went into business with Jean Adrien Philippe, resulting in Patek Philippe, and the rest, as they say, is history.
While the modern-day Czapek company got its start with more classically-styled watches, the Antarctique is a sports watch. Rated to 120 m, the Antarctique is practically sized at 40.5 mm wide, and a relatively thin 10.5 mm high. The case is also equipped with a quick-release mechanism to switch between the integrated steel bracelet and a strap.
The more conventional of the launch models, the Antarctique Terre Adélie is a limited edition of 99 pieces at the maximum (depending on the number of pre-orders). It’s available in four colours, the dial is finished with a vertically-striated pattern and features applied, blade-shaped indices.
Antarctique Terre Adélie, which gets its name from Adélie Land in Antarctica, which was named after the wife of the French explorer who discovered the territory
The Antarctique Orion Nebula, on the other hand, is limited to 10 pieces and has an unusual hand-painted dial that depicts an abstract pattern inspired by the nebula of the same name.
Antarctique Orion Nebula
The movement
Both Antarctique models are powered by the SXH5.01 movement. Though only available in the Antarctique for now, the SXH05 will presumably make its way into other Czapek watches in the near future.
Finished entirely in black with brushed and frosted surfaces for contrast, the SXH5.01 has angular, open-worked cocks for the going train. The bridge for the free-sprung balance is similarly skeletonised. It’s wound by a micro-rotor made of 18k recycled gold, and will run for 56 hours on a full wind.
Key facts and price
Czapek Antarctique
Diameter: 40.5 mm Height: 10.6 mm Material: Stainless steel Crystal: Sapphire Water resistance: 120 m
Movement: SXH5 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) Power reserve: 56 hours
Strap: Steel bracelet, and additional calfskin or rubber strap
Limitededition: Terre Adélie – 99 pieces maximum (dependent on number of subscribers); Orion Nebula – 10 pieces Availability: Direct from Czapek Price: Terre Adélie – US$18,900; or 18,000 Swiss francs
Orion Nebula – US$20,000; or 19,000 Swiss francs
To mark its 45th Anniversary, Ace Jewelers has once again turned to Nomos, resulting in the Tangente 38 Amsterdam Edition. It’s the third watch in the retailer’s Amsterdam series of limited editions, but the first based on Nomos’ signature Tangente, which was given a few Amsterdam-inspired tweaks in tribute to the retailer’s hometown.
Initial thoughts
Like Ace Jewelers’ earlier Nomos editions – the Club Campus Amsterdam and Zürich Weltzeit Amsterdam – the new Tangente features an attractive black, white and red colour scheme based on the Dutch capital’s coat of arms. The splash of red inject a playful character to what is ordinarily a monochromatic watch.
All the Amsterdam-specific details add up for a coherent and handsome design, even as a stand-alone Tangente independent of its inspiration. And it costs exactly the same as standard edition, making it a no-brainer if you like the stark colours.
The Amsterdam editions: Zürich Weltzeit (left), Tangente 38 (middle) and Club Campus (right)
Amsterdam-inspired
The strong use of black, white and red is nod to the Amsterdam coat of arms. Though the dial is high contrast, the reference to the Dutch city is subtle.
The dial is stark, in matte-black with silvered minutes track, hands and indices as well as accents of bright red in the seconds hand and the triply Saint Andrew’s crosses at six o’clock. The central element of the Amsterdam coat of arms, the trio of Saint Andrew’s crosses is also engraved on the crown.
Apart from the dial, everything else that is endearing about the Tangente remains unchanged. The watch retains the distinctive Deutscher Werkbund-inspired design with clean, straight lines. Easy to wear with a 37.5 mm diameter and lugs that angle downwards, the Tangente wears flat thanks to its height of 6.8 mm.
The slimness is thanks to the reliable Alpha movement, which was Nomos’s first in-house caliber, though based on the architecture of the tried-and-tested Peseux 7001. It’s still widely employed across the Nomos range today, and most often found in the entry-level models, which also explains the affordability of the Amsterdam edition.
Key facts and price
Nomos Tangente 38 Amsterdam Edition for Ace Jewelers
Diameter: 37.5 mm Height: 6.8 mm Material: Stainless steel Crystal: Sapphire Water resistance: 50 m
Movement: Alpha Functions: Hours, minutes and sub-seconds Winding: Manual wind Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) Power reserve: 43 hours
Strap: Horween shell cordovan
Limitededition: 45 pieces Availability: Late June at Ace Jewelers Price: €1,520 (excluding taxes)
While the vast majority of watch content on Instagram is predictable and repetitive – hello Nautilus with baguette gemstone bezel and Submariner “Hulk” – there are a couple of collectors with interesting watches who share their collections on the picture-sharing app.
The most interesting for me are the independent-watchmaking enthusiasts. Most own watches that well known and regarded as landmarks in the genre – Philippe Dufour Simplicity, F.P. Journe tourbillon, Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain, and the like – but many also have watches further off the beaten track, like Keaton Myrick’s 1 in 30 or the Bexei grande sonnerie.
Here are a few independent-watchmaking collectors who are worth a follow.
@igwatchlover – A collector based on Southeast Asia, Igwatchlover features his own watches, as well as occasionally watches owned by his friends – who are also accomplished collectors.
And he also features a good number of notable complicated watches from the 1990s, which are overlooked today but often just as interesting as the latest creations.
@horoptimist – A longtime collector who only started his Instagram account recently, Horoptimist is based in Asia but has managed to visit several independent watchmakers in their home countries, including Habring² in Austria and J.N. Shapiro in the United States.
Importantly, his collection includes not only the big-ticket watches, but also several affordable timepieces, most notably from Habring² (including a tourbillon), which proves that good independent watchmaking can also be accessible.
@burymewithmywatches – A European collector who has been posting more vintage watches of late – and was one of the first in the world to acquire the Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 – Burymewithmywatches is an accomplished collector of independent watchmaking who owns a Dufour Simplicity, lots of F.P. Journe, a few Akrivia, and several examples of Voutilianen including the rare Chronometre 27.
@shani.watch – Also located in the United States, Shani.watch has a collection that includes a good number of notable F.P. Journe watches – including a pair of tourbillons with stone dials – but also a Roger W. Smith Series 2 with uncommon applied numerals, and a Dufour Simplicity.
@alangejourney – And the last account is not about independent watchmaking, but still focused on serious, technical watchmaking. As the name indicates, it’s all about A. Lange & Söhne and includes some of the rarest watches made by the German watchmaker.
The collector, who is American and fairly new to Instagram, owns several important Lange wristwatches, including the mega Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon, and also the Odysseus Datomatic sports watch.
Since its debut in 2008, the Cartier Fine Watchmaking (FWM) collection has been the jeweller-watchmaker’s flagship range of timepieces, incorporating highly complicated movements into watches designed in traditional Cartier style, albeit in very large cases. This year’s Fine Watchmaking line-up is made up of four watches – led by the uber-complex Grand Complication Skeleton – all presented in the round Rotonde de Cartier case.
Initial thoughts
I have held the Cartier FWM collection in high regard – it is testimony to the brand’s haute horlogerie prowess, which most tend to underestimate or are unaware of. So it was a bit disappointing to see FWM recede slightly starting in 2018 as Cartier focused instead on its historical, time-only watches – such as this year’s Tank Asymétrique – which have been resurrected as the Cartier Privé collection.
The debut of this quartet of watches is a pleasing return to form for FWM, though it should be pointed out none of the are entirely new in terms of movements.
The “mystery” complication of Cartier has been found in several FWM models in the past, but it never fails to astound. The mystery hours, for instance, are simple, time-only watches but have a great deal of visual allure. And the Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication Skeleton revives one of the most complicated movements ever developed by Cartier, while being visually stimulating with its open-worked dial that exposes the intricate and complex movement.
But all of the watches are large, especially for classically-styled watches. The smallest is the mystery hours at 42 mm in diameter, while the grand complications are 45 mm.
Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hour Skeleton
The mysterious watches
The Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hour Skeleton and Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon were first introduced at SIHH 2017 in different guises.
The main difference in the new launches lies in the case material, with the Mysterious Hour Skeleton now available in either pink gold or white gold set with diamonds. And the Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon is similarly offered in pink gold, which creates a warmer, richer look for both.
Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hour Skeleton with diamonds
The mysterious complications of Cartier date to 1912, when Cartier unveiled its first Mystery Clock – the Model A. Developed by watchmaker Maurice Coüet, and Louis Cartier, the clock was inspired by the illusions of Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, a 19th-century French watchmaker, illusionist and magician.
The word “mysterious” refers to the hands and flying tourbillon that appear to seemingly float in the air, without any apparent connection or support. In the modern-day wristwatches, as in the original mystery clocks, the secret lies in mounting the hands or the tourbillon cage on transparent sapphire discs that have toothed rims hidden under the movement plates. These teeth mesh with the gears of the going train, turning the discs and creating the illusion.
Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon
Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication Skeleton
And towering over the others is the Grande Complication Skeleton, which incorporates a perpetual calendar, minute repeater and flying tourbillon within an elegant, but large, pink gold case. If it looks familiar, it’s because the model was introduced in 2015, but in a platinum case.
The timepiece is no doubt visually and mechanically satisfying to look at, especially since the hammers and gongs of the minute repeater are prominent – and symmetrically arranged – on the dial.
Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication Skeleton
Key Facts and Price
Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hours Skeleton
Ref. CRWHRO006 (pink gold)
Ref. CRHPI01340 (white gold with diamonds)
Diameter: 42 mm Height: 11.9 mm Material: Pink gold or white gold with diamonds Crystal: Sapphire Water resistance: 30 m
Movement: Cal. 9983 MC Functions: Hours and minutes Winding: Manual wind Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) Power reserve: 48 hours
Strap: Alligator
Limited edition: No Availability: Now at boutiques
Price: On request
Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon
Ref. CRWHRO0061
Diameter: 45 mm Height: 11.5 mm Material: Pink gold Crystal: Sapphire Water resistance: 30 m
Movement: Cal. 9507 MC Functions: Hours, minutes, minute repeater and flying tourbillon Winding: Manual wind Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) Power reserve: 84 hours
Strap: Alligator
Limited edition: 20 pieces
Availability: Now at boutiques
Price: On request
Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication Skeleton
Ref. CRWHRO0065
Diameter: 45 mm Height: 12.57 mm Material: Pink gold Crystal: Sapphire Water resistance: 30 m
Movement: Cal. 9506 MC Functions: Hours, minutes, minute repeater, flying tourbillon and perpetual calendar Winding: Manual wind Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) Power reserve: 50 hours
Strap: Alligator
Limited edition: 15 pieces
Availability: Now at boutiques
Price: On request