To mark its 45th Anniversary, Ace Jewelers has once again turned to Nomos, resulting in the Tangente 38 Amsterdam Edition. It’s the third watch in the retailer’s Amsterdam series of limited editions, but the first based on Nomos’ signature Tangente, which was given a few Amsterdam-inspired tweaks in tribute to the retailer’s hometown.

Initial thoughts

Like Ace Jewelers’ earlier Nomos editions – the Club Campus Amsterdam and Zürich Weltzeit Amsterdam – the new Tangente features an attractive black, white and red colour scheme based on the Dutch capital’s coat of arms. The splash of red inject a playful character to what is ordinarily a monochromatic watch.

All the Amsterdam-specific details add up for a coherent and handsome design, even as a stand-alone Tangente independent of its inspiration. And it costs exactly the same as standard edition, making it a no-brainer if you like the stark colours.

The Amsterdam editions: Zürich Weltzeit (left), Tangente 38 (middle) and Club Campus (right)

Amsterdam-inspired

The strong use of black, white and red is nod to the Amsterdam coat of arms. Though the dial is high contrast, the reference to the Dutch city is subtle.

The dial is stark, in matte-black with silvered minutes track, hands and indices as well as accents of bright red in the seconds hand and the triply Saint Andrew’s crosses at six o’clock. The central element of the Amsterdam coat of arms, the trio of Saint Andrew’s crosses is also engraved on the crown.

Apart from the dial, everything else that is endearing about the Tangente remains unchanged. The watch retains the distinctive Deutscher Werkbund-inspired design with clean, straight lines. Easy to wear with a 37.5 mm diameter and lugs that angle downwards, the Tangente wears flat thanks to its height of 6.8 mm.

The slimness is thanks to the reliable Alpha movement, which was Nomos’s first in-house caliber, though based on the architecture of the tried-and-tested Peseux 7001. It’s still widely employed across the Nomos range today, and most often found in the entry-level models, which also explains the affordability of the Amsterdam edition.

Key facts and price

Nomos Tangente 38 Amsterdam Edition for Ace Jewelers

Diameter: 37.5 mm
Height: 6.8 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Alpha
Functions: Hours, minutes and sub-seconds
Winding: Manual wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 43 hours

Strap: Horween shell cordovan

Limited edition: 45 pieces
Availability: Late June at Ace Jewelers
Price: €1,520 (excluding taxes)

For more information, visit Acejewelers.com.

Correction May 25, 2020: The Amsterdam edition costs the same as the standard edition, and not more as stated in an earlier version of the article.