The 082° émail grand feu is Zeitwinkel’s first wristwatch with a fired enamel dial, but it retains all the key elements that distinguish the brand’s watches, including the wonderfully constructed in-house movement.

Like all of Zeitwinkel’s other watches, the 082° émail grand feu is named after an angle, a nod to the company name, which means “time angle” in German. Zeitwinkel keeps the exact meaning of the numbers for each model a secret, but émail grand feu explains it all: that’s French for “great fire enamel”. That’s traditional vitreous enamel, which is actually powdered glass that’s fired in an oven to set.

Zeitwinkel’s watches are all characterised by clean lines and simple dials, a fitting style for the stark white enamel. The numerals and markings on the dial are printed in blue to match the blued steel hands; notably the 082° émail grand feu is the first Zeitwinkel with numerals on the dial, all others have baton markers.

Simple in shape, the hands are substantial in size, with rounded edges and flat tops. They are hand-made, being polished and filed by hand (no pun intended).

The case is a compact 39mm in diameter but 11.6mm high, giving it a sturdy appearance. Like the dial the case is simple in form, with a flat bezel and straight lugs. The only ornamentation is on the flanks: the perimeter of the case is raised and polished, while the recessed surface is sandblasted and matte, a finish that’s found on all Zeitwinkel watches.

The key attractive of Zeitwinkel watches is the movement, and it’s no different on the 082° émail grand feu.

While the brand makes several different calibres, they form one family and have the same foundations; they look similar through the display backs. The movements were originally developed by Laurent Besse, a talented movement constructor best known for being the technical brains behind the avant-garde movement inside the MB&F HM4. They are now manufactured in-house at the company’s facility in Saint-Imier, the town best known as the home of Longines.

While the movements are Swiss made, as is the brand itself, it appears that the founders of the brand (whose identities remain a secret) are German or inclined towards German watchmaking. The clues are the style of Zeitwinkel’s movements and also the fact that the brand was registered, and is still headquartered, in Germany.

Constructed with a three-quarter plate in a style often associated with German watches, the movement has the bridges and base plate in German silver, giving it the yellow-silver look typical of the metal.

The movement inside the 082° émail grand feu is the calibre ZW0102, a large automatic movement with twin barrels and a 72-hour power reserve.

The decoration of the movement is mostly done by hand and is exceedingly attractive for a watch at this price point. The polished bevels on the bridges are admirable, as is the black polished cap on the escape wheel cock that sits beside the balance wheel. Other fine details include the blued steel screws and gears of the automatic winding mechanism that have circular grained surfaces and bevel spokes.

Price and availability 

Available direct from Zeitwinkel or its retailers, the 082° émail grand feu is priced at SFr9490 including 8% Swiss tax. That’s equivalent to US$9550.