A brand new design reminiscent of 1970s styling and an integrated bracelet, the Tudor North Flag boasts the new, in-house MT5621 movement, an impressively spec’ed calibre with a three day power reserve and silicon hairspring.

The North Flag represents many firsts for Tudor: it’s equipped with the brand’s first in-house movement visible through its first display back. And it has a power reserve indicator, yet another first. But more important the North Flag has a well constructed movement with useful features, packaged inside an high quality case – at an affordable price. Most most of its history Tudor relied on a straightforward formula: watches in Rolex Oyster cases with ETA movements inside at a lower price point than its big green brother. That began to change in 2009 when current chief executive Philippe Peverelli took the helm, introducing popular vintage-inspired watches like the Black Bay and Heritage Monte Carlo. The aesthetic changed for the better but Tudor still relied on ETA movements (with the odd alarm module made by Soprod in its Heritage Advisor).  The North Flag is a departure from that. It’s a fresh design with the MT5621 movement inside, the very first movement made by Tudor. The look of the North Flag is inspired by the Tudor Ranger II of the 1970s, but fortunately it is not another replica of a vintage watch. When it does bring to mind the 1970s, the North Flag brings back good memories; the integrated bracelet look is reminiscent notably the Genta-designed Patek Philippe Nautilus and IWC Ingenieur SL.

The case Despite being modestly sized by today’s standards – the case is 40mm in diameter – the watch feels solid. Everything about the case – finishing, form and detailing – is pleasing to the eye and hand. That being said, this is expected of Tudor (and Rolex of course); I can’t think of a watch from either where the case is poorly made. The construction and finish of the case is impressive, with straight and precise edges all round. Though the case is entirely brushed throughout, missing the finer details like a polished lug bevel found on watches like the Monte Carlo, it looks and feels good. And the ceramic ring in between the bezel and case highlights the dial.

The definition of the plane between the lugs is worth admiring

The version on a steel bracelet feels reassuringly hefty on the wrist. And the large links of the bracelet are neatly finished, just like the case. By comparison the black leather strap looks ordinary, though the yellow stitching is attractive. 

The dial If there’s a weakness in its external component it is the dial, which is well done but could be better. The printing for instance is slightly fuzzy up close, and the applied hour markers look simplistic. 

The movement In a first for Tudor, the North Flag has a display back. It’s still obviously a Tudor (and Rolex) Oyster back, with the trademark fluted edge – that is pleasingly sharp – that’s used to screw down the case back.

The engraving around the case back is well done

The MT5621 movement is Tudor’s first in-house movement, but unsurprisingly there are faint echoes of Rolex, like the full balance bridge with a free-sprung Microstella balance wheel. And it has a silicon hairspring; Rolex just introduced its own silicon hairspring last year.

Though totally plain and industrial in its finishing, the MT5621 has impressive specs, far more important than cosmetics at this price point. It has a 70 hour or three day power reserve, as well as a date that can be adjusted at any time (most movements have dates that shouldn’t be adjusted between 9:00pm and 3:00am). Notably these features are identical to that found on the new Rolex calibre 3255 in the Day-Date 40, also just introduced at Baselworld 2015.

A free-sprung balance with adjustable weights a la Rolex Microstella

Don’t look at it too closely

Pricing The North Flag retails for S$4900 or US$3675 with the bracelet, and S$4760 or US$3550 on a leather strap. For what you get it gets high marks in value for money.