Created in collaboration with movement development powerhouse Renaud & Papi, the HYT H2 is the coolest product yet from hydro-mechanical horologists HYT. Yesterday we went hands-on with the HYT H2, bringing you deep into the three-dimensional movement. Here we have HYT CEO, the dynamic Vincent Perriard, to explain the functions of the H2. – SJX

At Baselworld 2013 HYT unveiled its second hydro-mechanical wristwatch, the H2. Created in collaboration with Renaud & Papi, the H2 continues HYT’s novel approach to watchmaking with a liquid time display.

Unveiled in 2012, the HYT H1 was the world’s first watch with a liquid time display. For the H2, HYT has adhered to the same formula: a mechanical wristwatch with the hours indicated by fluids inside a clear glass tube.

But the H2 is a more elaborate timepiece. Having been conceived with Renaud & Papi, the H2 movement, with its eight day power reserve, is more complicated and refined that of its smaller brother.

Whereas the H1 had a solid dial, the H2 has no dial. Instead the movement is exposed in all its multi-layered glory. It is not exceptionally in photos, but the movement has tremendous visual depth thanks to the layout of the bridges. 

All the wheels and gears are visible, as are the bellows driving the liquid, arranged in a “V” like the cylinders of an engine. The overall effect is three-dimensional and engaging.

Crown function indicator at right

The H2 has a liquid hour display, indicated by the meniscus of two liquids inside the glass tube around the dial. One is a water-based green liquid, while the other is clear and oil-based, ensuring the two will never mix. 

The time showing 4:26

Travelling clockwise around the dial, the green liquid acts as the hour hand, returning to its origin at the top of the hour thanks to a snail cam, much like a retrograde hand.

The minute display, however, is unusual and reminiscent of some of Renaud & Papi’s other work. When the minute hand hits six o’clock, it jumps across the six o’clock marker since the marker obstructs the minute display. 

The minute hand and the sapphire minutes ring

The minutes are engraved on a sapphire chapter ring above the movement, and the minute hand jumps from “30” on one side to “30” on the other side, while continuing to keep time.

At 12 o’clock sits the balance bridge, but it is a regular balance and not a tourbillon. 

And at three o’clock is the crown function indicator, synonymous with Renaud & Papi and most common on Richard Mille tourbillons. There is no need to pull the crown out, just pressing the crown allows the wearer to wind (R) or set the time via the crown (H). And when not in use the crown is in a neutral position (N).

The H2 also has a temperature display at nine o’clock, which indicates if the watch is operating at the optimum temperature. White is optimum, while blue is cold and red is warm. That being said, the H2, like the H1, has a built-in mechanism to compensate for environmental effects on the liquid, so the H2 will function well regardless of the ambient temperature.

The snail cam of the retrograde liquid hours, and to its left the temperature indicator

From the back the movement is less compelling. It reveals the bellows and two very large barrels for the eight day power reserve. Interestingly the sapphire case back is screwed directly onto the case and sits edge to edge, instead of being set into a metal case back. The advantage of this being the totally unimpeded view of the entire movement.

The H2 will be made in a limited edition of 50 pieces in black DLC coated titanium with a retail price of SFr120,000 or US$129,000. The H2 is certainly a better watch than the H1, with a more elaborately and creatively constructed movement, as well as possessing finer fit and finish – the Renaud & Papi quality is evident. But the H2 costs more than double the H1, which makes one think twice. 

– SJX

NATO straps have grown, and grown, in popularity. Not just amongst military watch geeks; NATO straps are now sold by clothing retailers and sometimes worn as bracelets sans watch (oh the horror). Watch brands have picked up on this and are generously offering canvas bands along with their watches, the Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue and Blancpain Bathyscaphe being two recent examples.

One-piece straps for military watches which loop under the watch case have been around for a long time. Such fabric straps were used by both the US and British forces (giving rise to the nickname RAF strap, for the Royal Air Force), and were first used in the mid-twentieth century, maybe even earlier. But the two-piece strap now known as the NATO dates to the British MOD Def Stan 66-15 of 30 November 1973 (a slightly later addition to 66-15 is for a leather and canvas two-part band).

Since superseded by Defence Standard (Def Stan) 66-47 of 2001, this Ministry of Defence (MOD) Def Stan outlined the “requirements for the wrist watch strap to be used by the Ministry of Defence (MOD).” This document was intended for manufacturers who wished to tender for or were awarded contracts to make such watch straps.

Source British Ministry of Defence

Titled “Strap, Wrist Watch”, the Def Stan specifies, in great detail, what a NATO strap should be. Incidentally the strap is not officially known as a NATO strap, instead the name comes from the fact that the strap has a NATO stock number: 6645-99-124-2986 in the case of the army and navy, and 6645-99-527-7059 for the air force. Sometimes also called the G10 strap, after the form needed to order them, the specifications of the NATO strap are simple:

– “Straps shall be supplied with the joints, buckle and loops securely heat-welded in position. The end of each strap and the holes will be heat-sealed.”

– “The strap shall be of straight cross weave nylon ribbon, free from additives which may act as an irritant to the wrist under humid or extreme conditions. The manufacture shall be in accordance with figure 1. The colour of the nylon ribbon (20mm wide) shall be to BS 4800 card number 3, reference 18B25, colour grey.”

Source British Ministry of Defence Def Stan 66047

Though the Def Stan does not explain, the reason for heat-welding, instead of stitching, is that welded nylon is less prone to coming apart. So any canvas band which is stitched instead of welded does not conform to the original standards. And the original purpose of having the strap loop under the watch is to ensure the watch does not fall off the wrist, even if one spring bar breaks. Because of the strap construction, the watch will remained secured by a single bar, albeit hanging precariously. With a conventional watch strap, a broken spring bar means a quick trip to the floor for the watch.

As the Def Stan specifies, the military issue NATO is Admiralty Grey, though numerous other colours have been made. The colourful striped versions are known as Regimental straps, because they are make for particular regiments according to their unit colours.

Concise designs and modest pricing has always been the hallmark of Nomos watches. Well made, but not lavishly so, Nomos watches are usually affordable. While the new Lambda and Lux still have the simple aesthetics typical of Nomos, they feature movements with elaborate decoration, gold cases – and corresponding prices.

Both use in-house DUW calibres, which stands for “Deutsche Uhrenwerke NOMOS Glashütte”, the appellation given to the line of high-end Nomos movements. But the DUW movements are not new, rather they are based on the Wempe Chronometerwerke calibres built by Nomos for the German retailer, unveiled in 2006.

At 42 mm wide, the round Lambda is larger than the average Nomos, but no less elegant at just 8.9 mm high. It is available in rose or white gold, with a silver-plated dial.

A largish, 14 ¼ lignes (32 mm) movement, the hand-finished DUW 1001 features most of the elements now associated with German watchmaking, like the solid gold chatons secured by blued steel screws and a three-quarter plate (in rhodiumed brass) decorated with sunray striping. Naturally the balance cock has a swan neck regulator, and is hand-engraved with “Mit Liebe in Glashütte gefertigt”, meaning  “lovingly produced in Glashütte”.

Equipped with twin barrels, the DUW 1001 has an 84 hour power reserve, equivalent to just over three days. The remaining power is displayed on the large power reserve indicator on the dial.

The tonneau-shaped Nomos Lux, available only in white gold, measures 40.5 mm by 36 mm. It is available with either a silver or pale blue dial.

Inside is the DUW 2002 calibre, which is mechanically similar to the DUW 1001, save for two things, the DUW 2002 is tonneau-shaped and lacks a power reserve indicator. Both calibres appear to share the same basic construction.

Both the Lambda and Lux are delivered on Horween shell cordovan straps with gold pin buckles. The price is several orders of magnitude higher than the average Nomos, which sells for US$2000 or so. The Lambda in rose gold is US$17,800, and in white gold it is US$18,800. And the Nomos Lux in white gold is US$20,500, in either dial colour.

The pricing is steep and way out of the segment where Nomos competes well. In addition, the comparable Wempe Chronometerwerke in gold, with an identical but less finely decorated movement, retails for €8450 (~US$11,700). Well made as these are, the value proposition is less compelling than for the typical Nomos timepiece.

Unveiled at Watches&Wonders 2013, the Panerai Radiomir 1940 Chrono Monopulsante 8 Days GMT is the first chronograph of the 1940 range, and also features one of the most elaborately decorated movements found on a Panerai.

A cross between the Luminor and Radiomir case styles, the Radiomir 1940 key focus of Panerai’s 2013 line-up. Panerai has now added a chronograph to the line, the Radiomir 1940 Chrono Monopulsante 8 Days GMT, available in Oro Rosso (red gold with the reference PAM00502) and Oro Bianco (white gold, PAM00503), equipped with the P.2004/10 movement. Though not a new calibre, the P.2004/10 is a more elaborate version of the original P.2004. The improvements are aesthetic, with the three-quarter plate and barrel having been skeletonised. 

Radiomir 1940 Chrono Monopulsante 8 Days GMT in white gold

The result is an attractive looking movement, probably the most visually compelling Panerai movement. That’s due not just to the open-worked parts, but also because visible effort has been taken in decorating the skeletonised three-quarter plate.

All the edges of the plate sport anglage which is clearly manually applied, resulting in a rounded and polished bevel. This contrasts with the typical Panerai edge finishing of a harsh bevel cut by machine.

Oddly enough, the balance bridge of the movement is finished with that very method, and the bevelling stands in stark contrast to the three-quarter plate. 

Note the differences in the balance bridge bevelling

Anglage aside, the rest of the movement features decoration that is standard Panerai. More could have been done, especially on the exposed chronograph levers. As they are now, the steel parts of the chronograph mechanism are just brushed, with the barest of bevelling.

Simple finish of the chronograph levers, below the column wheel

Mechanically the P.2004/10 is identical to the earlier versions. It has a single-button chronograph with the pusher at eight, a second time zone hand with day and night indicator at three, as well as Panerai’s trademark linear power reserve at six. Thanks to three barrels, the movement has an eight day power reserve. The Radiomir 1940 case is 45 mm, making it large and hefty. Though the case is generally simple in execution, one detail that stands out is the relief text around the case back, a first for Panerai. The dial, black on the white gold and brown on the rose, has a metallic, sunburst finish. Like most other Panerai watches, the dial has a sandwich construction. That means all the indices are actually cut-outs showing the luminous material underneath.

The AM/PM indicator at nine o’clock, with the power reserve below

A close-up reveals the sandwich dial

As a consequence of the decorated movement and gold case, the Radiomir 1940 Chrono Monopulsante 8 Days GMT is pricey. In Oro Rosso (PAM502), it retails for S$64,000 (~US$51,700) and is a limited edition of 300 pieces. And in Oro Bianco lists at S$68,800 (~US$55,600) and is limited to 150 pieces. These are Singapore prices and include a 7% tax.  – SJX

To mark the 30th anniversaries of the Hong Kong offices of both Ferrari and Hublot, the watchmaker has created a limited edition Hublot Big Bang Ferrari Hong Kong with a distinctive red ceramic bezel.

Since its inauguration last year, Hublot’s partnership with Ferrari has produced a slew of limited edition timepieces, the latest of which is the Hublot Big Bang Ferrari Hong Kong. It is fitted with a bright red ceramic bezel, which Hublot says is the first time a brightly coloured ceramic has been used in a timepiece. The sapphire case back features the Hong Kong 30th anniversary logo, referring to both Hublot and Ferrari, which simultaneously mark 30 years in Hong Kong this year.

The rest of the watch is standard Big Bang – a 45.5 mm black ceramic case with resin and carbon bits and bobs. The movement is the modular and in-house UNICO flyback calibre. And the watch is delivered with rubber two straps covered in Schedoni leather (the supplier of Ferrari leather goods), easily interchangeable via the seat-belt buckle inspired buttons on the lugs.

30 pieces of the Hublot Big Bang Ferrari Hong Kong will be made, with the price yet to be announced. But with the recently launched Big Bang Ferrari Singapore edition retailing for about US$38,000, expect this to be in the same range. – SJX

The irrepressible and irreplaceable Chairman of Hublot, Jean-Claude Biver

Montblanc unveiled its most complicated timepiece yet at Watches&Wonders 2013 – the ExoTourbillon Rattrapante, combining its novel ExoTourbillon with a traditional split-seconds mechanism.

Though Montblanc has not been a watchmaker for long – and it is still finding its footing in horology in terms of branding – the Hamburg pen maker has done created some impressive products. They range from the clever and modern Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours to the ultra-traditionalist and gorgeously finished Villeret 1858 watches. The new ExoTourbillon Rattrapante falls squarely into the latter category. The special series of TimeWriter concept watches aside, the ExoTourbillon Rattrapante is the most complicated timepiece in the Montblanc Villeret 1858 line-up. It combines the ExoTourbillon with a split-seconds mechanism. Unveiled several years ago, the ExoTourbillon has a simple premise: the tourbillon carriage is positioned under the balance wheel, leaving the balance free of the carriage. And unusually enough, the ExoTourbillon is a four minute tourbillon, completing one revolution every four minutes, as opposed to the conventional one.

The fundamental rationale for this stems from the origins of the movement inside, which is a vintage calibre originally designed for a pocket watch; that is why the watch is a chunky 47 mm. Consequently it has a pocket watch sized balance wheel measuring 14.5 mm wide, and a conventional tourbillon carriage would not fit in the movement.

The tourbillon cage visible below the hairspring

According to Montblanc, separating the two has makes the movement more efficient as the tourbillon, with its reduced carriage, consumes a third less torque. Additional energy is saved by the slow speed of the tourbillon.  Also, the balance wheel is left to oscillate independent, free from the inertia of the tourbillon cage. And of course the balance wheel size is maximised, giving it greater inertia and stability.

Though the ExoTourbillon is mechanically the same as before, the tourbillon bridge has been revamped. It is now open-worked, styled like an Art Nouveau masterpiece. Rounded and polished, the tourbillon bridge is the most prominent example of the wonderful finishing characteristic of Montblanc Villeret 1858.

And this watch also has a split-seconds mechanism. While it is a complex, the rattrapante mechanism here is utterly traditional, constructed with a horizontal coupling sans isolator, exactly as found in pocket watches of the nineteenth century. It is not particularly outstanding. But it does give the movement an additional layer of complexity, enhancing its visual appeal.

The split seconds mechanism with the tell-tale rattrapante clamps

Interestingly, Demetrio Cabiddu, Montblanc’s master watchmaker of the old school, indicated he was aware of contemporary and sophisticated split-seconds mechanisms like those of Lange and Patek Philippe. So even though this watch has a traditional rattrapante, there remains the possibility of a new split-seconds from Montblanc in time to come. The movement pictured here is a prototype, so several bits are rough, especially the components of the split seconds mechanism which was added to the base movement. Nevertheless the base movement still reveals many beautiful details, especially in the finishing of the chronograph parts.

Visually the ExoTourbillon Rattrapante is cleaner and more refined than the earlier models in the range. Though relatively simple, the dial is elaborately made: the dial material is solid gold and all the sub-dials are in grand feu enamel. This is more atttractive than the fussy designs of before, and a good sign of where the collection is moving, at least in terms of design.

The ExoTourbillon Rattrapante is a limited edition of 18 pieces in white gold, with a price tag of €250,000 (~US$424,000), before taxes. – SJX

Hublot has just announced its collaboration with Shawn Carter, better known as Jay-Z, to create two watches for the Shawn Carter Collection.

The result of the partnership between the entertainment entrepreneur and Hublot are the Shawn Carter by Hublot timepieces. Simple and almost formal, both use the same 45 mm Classic Fusion case. Though large, the Jay-Z watches have the simplistic but slim and skeletonised 2.9 mm Classico hand-wind movement inside. Resembling a cross between a Maltese cross and a maple leaf, the Shawn Carter Collection logo, is open-worked, forming the only decoration on the dial.

Unusually, besides the usual black ceramic, the Shawn Carter by Hublot is also available in 3N yellow gold, a striking departure from fashionable rose gold. In fact, this is the first time Hublot is using this alloy in a watch and if Hublot is on to it, yellow gold is surely back in vogue. Priced at US$17,900, the black ceramic watch is limited to 250 pieces. And the yellow gold is limited to 100 with a price of US$33,900.

These watches will be available at Barneys New York, as part of Jay-Z’s winter holiday collaboration with the store, as well as Hublot boutiques. A quarter of all sales from the Barneys project will go to Shawn Carter Scholarship Foundation, which caters to less fortunate post-secondary students. – SJX

Equipped with the new Co-Axial Calibre 8508, the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss is resistant to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss and more, equivalent to over 1,200,000 A/m or 1.5 T, giving it the highest level of magnetism resistant of any wristwatch today. The Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss is a breakthrough not so much for the technology used, but because it is widely available at a fairly accessible price, offering a hint of things to come.

Encountering a magnetic field of that magnitude is unusual, except for those working in industries with equipment containing large magnets, like medical professionals and nuclear engineers. That being said, weak magnetic fields are common in everyday life, emanating from electric appliances like speakers and refrigerators, but also in gadgets like mobile phones and iPads.

Generally, these magnetic fields are negligible. According to the World Health Organisation, the average daily exposure of a normal person is about 0.10 µT. That’s several millionths of what the Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss is resistant to.

But when a magnetic field is strong enough, it will affect a mechanical wristwatch. The result is either the wristwatch running extremely fast, or stopping altogether. While magnetism is not a frequent problem with wristwatches, it happens often enough and when it does it typically cannot be ignored.

Watchmakers long ago devised a solution for this: the soft iron cage. A simple but effective solution, the soft iron cage is an inner case enclosing the entire movement, acting as a Faraday cage and blocking magnetic fields from reaching the movement.

Such soft iron cages can be found in military watches from the thirties, and occasionally even in nineteenth century pocket watches. The soft iron cage became the de rigeur solution for magnetism-resistant watches, including the most famous of them all, the Rolex Milgauss and IWC Ingenieur. These watches are usually resistant to magnetic fields of about 1000 gauss (hence mille gauss), or 80,000 A/m.

It is worth noting the IWC Ocean 2000 BUND AMAG, issued to German navy minesweeper divers starting in the late eighties and in use till the early part of this decade. Because sea mines are triggered by a magnetic object disrupting the magnetic field generated by the mine, the divers had to be thoroughly anti-magnetic.

IWC Porsche Design Ocean 2000 BUND AMAG

The Ocean 2000 AMAG did not use a soft iron cage, instead all the parts of the ETA 2892 movement were made from non-magnetic metals; the balance wheel for instance was made of a beryllium alloy. IWC essentially rebuilt the 2892 to turn it into a non-magnetic movement, where no component could be magnetised. But only a few dozen of these watches were made – they were apparently unrewardingly tedious to manufacture – and they are now highly collectible.

Omega has taken a similar approach with the Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss, except that production has been industrialised and will soon be found on other Omega models. It is likely that magnetism-resistance will become a key feature of Omega movements in the distant future, since it is a cost effective way of eliminating watches being returned for demagnetisation, a laborious process that does not generate revenue.

Key components of the Co-Axial cal. 8508 are made from non-magnetic materials. The hairspring is silicon, the same Si14 balance wheel used in most other Co-Axial movements. Additionally, and this is where patents are pending, the escape wheel and pallet fork are made from non-magnetic alloys, as are their pivots. And the shock absorber spring of the balance bridge is made from an amorphous alloy.

And the cal. 8508 is visible through the display back. This is because unlike the traditional soft iron cage solution where the magnetic field is stopped from getting to the movement, a magnetic field can pass straight through the cal. 8508, since it is is highly magnetism resistant.

Omega’s snazzy graphic to emphasise the magnetic field goes through the watch

Magnetism resistance aside, the Omega looks similar to other Co-Axial movements with an attractive, but clearly industrial decoration.

Visually the Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss resembles the typical Aqua Terra, save for the striking yellow and black seconds hand which is reminiscent of the safety warnings on industrial equipment. Though it is perfectly executed when viewed from the front, the paint on the seconds hand is not well applied on the underside.

The Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss has all the qualities which most Co-Axial Omega watches now boast, including the precisely shaped, diamond-cut indices and hands. In this price segment Omega boasts some of the best hands and dials.

On bracelet, the Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss retails for S$8550 in Singapore, including 7% tax (~US$6900). It costs slightly less with the leather strap.

– SJX Follow us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter for updates and news.

F. P. Journe celebrates the 30th anniversary of his first timepiece in 2013 with the limited edition F. P. Journe Historical Anniversary Tourbillon, inspired by the very same pocket watch of 1983.

In 1983 François-Paul Journe completed his first timepiece, a tourbillon pocket watch inspired by the work of a great French horologist of another generation, Abraham-Louis Breguet. Thirty years on F. P. Journe has taken that first pocket watch and transformed it into a wristwatch, the F. P. Journe Historical Anniversary Tourbillon.  Inspired by nineteenth century watchmaking, the Historical Anniversary Tourbillon is a rare departure from the distinctive Journe aesthetic, found on the Chronomètre Optimum for instance. Nevertheless it still retains certain signature Journe design elements, like the case shape and slim crown.  Like the pocket watch, the Historical Anniversary Tourbillon has a case in sterling silver, with the front and back bezels in rose gold, along with the crown. Because the sterling silver parts are untreated, they will tarnish and develop a patina, just like vintage pocket watches do. The decorative guilloche on the case back and flanks is likewise taken from the pocket watch.

The dial is silvered with a grained texture, while the numerals and minute track are engraved and filled with black lacquer. Blued steel is used for the hands, which are naturally in the Breguet style.

The F. P. Journe tourbillon pocket watch of 1983

Underneath the hinged case back is the movement, almost identical to the 1983 original. Whereas the original had a detent escapement like chronometers of old, the anniversary wristwatch has a Swiss lever escapement. 

Fitted with a one minute tourbillon powered by twin barrels, the cal. 1412 of the anniversary watch has a frosted, gilt finish, with blued steel screws and polished steel components. 

According to Journe, the Historical Anniversary Tourbillon has a higher level of movement finishing, thanks to the technology available at his workshops, than the 1983 pocket watch which the then fledgling watchmaker created by hand.

Like all Journe watches the anniversary tourbillon possesses elegant proportions: it is 40 mm wide and 10 mm high. Though different from the usual Journe fare, the Historical Anniversary Tourbillon is nevertheless is a splendid looking timepiece, reflecting the tasteful aesthetic that is characteristic of Journe. The F. P. Journe Historical Anniversary Tourbillon is a limited edition of 99 pieces, priced at US$99,000 before taxes. – SJX Update 21 October 2013: Article updated to include fact that sterling silver case parts are untreated.