Though much has been written about the Lange Grand Complication launched at SIHH 2013 (where Lange also presented its smaller brother, the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar), little of it has been seen aside from stock images. That’s because at SIHH Lange only presented the Grand Complication privately to a handful of people, and no photos were allowed.

But we have managed to get some special, intimate time with the completed and decorated Grand Complication prototype, with none other than Anthony de Haas as our guide, at the recently concluded Watches&Wonders in Hong Kong.

Inspired by the vintage Lange grand complication pocket watch with the serial no. 42500 restored by Lange several years ago, the modern Grand Complication wristwatch is planned as a limited edition of six timepieces, as well as one prototype pictured here.

Named L1902 because the original pocket watch was made in 1902, the movement of the Grand Complication has a grand and petite sonnerie; minute repeater; monopusher, split-seconds chronograph with 1/5 second foudroyante; and perpetual calendar with moon phase. All of that requires three barrels and three gear trains, one for the time and calendar, another for the sonnerie and the last for the lightning seconds. The following video clip shows the grand sonnerie in action at 12:45, with 12 strikes for the hours and three double strikes for the quarters.

And in this clip de Haas explains the split-seconds, monopusher chronograph and lightning seconds functions of the watch. It’s in German but it illustrates the motion of the foudroyante perfectly. Those are the exact same functions of the pocket watch, though the L1902 has been re-engineered for better usability and reliability.

876 parts make up the L1902 movement, which is housed inside a massive pink gold case. At 50 mm wide and 20.3 mm high, the Grand Complication is actually a pocket watch with lugs. That leads to the obvious question: why not make it a pocket watch?

According to de Haas, Lange’s Director of Product Development, the point was not to make a pitch perfect replica of the original pocket watch, but rather to adapt it for contemporary use.

The Grand Complication next to a dimunitive 39 mm Datograph

That is why although the Grand Complication wristwatch has all the functions of the original, the movement has been significantly improved. Most notably, the grand sonnerie has a safety mechanism, which means the time can be set while the sonnerie is striking; doing so on the vintage pocket watch would result in a vast repair bill.

Another example is the lightning seconds at six o’clock, which blazes round the dial once a second. In the original (and other vintage pocket watches with the same function), running the foudroyante for the equivalent of a month would render it completely worn and usable, says de Haas. Redesigned to be robust, the Grand Complication can now be operated at the owner’s pleasure.

That being said, the Grand Complication still retains many anachronistic movement construction details of nineteenth century watchmaking. The rattrapante mechanism, for example, has no isolator. And the large, gold screws on the balance wheel are actually used to poise the balance. It’s a peculiar combination of new and old watchmaking, something characteristic of Lange.

Because the Grand Complication is Lange’s flagship complication, and also its most expensive with a price of €1.92 million (about US$2.6 million), no expense was spared with the finishing. As de Haas puts it, “We went a bit crazy [with the decoration].”

All the steel parts are black polished, otherwise known as spéculaire. This technique renders the steel surface so perfectly flat that it appears black at certain angles, hence the name. In other Lange chronographs, the Datograph for instance, most steel parts are straight grained on top.

Another notable detail is the cap for the twin column wheels of the chronograph, the first time Lange has included this in a chronograph. These black polished steel caps also feature in the original Grand Complication pocket watch, but they are not merely for show.

De Haas explains that because the column wheel farthest from the balance wheel has two levels, the lower one for the chronograph lever and the other for the lightning seconds, the cap was required to keep the foudroyante lever in position. And the other column wheel, which only has a single level, was capped as well to keep the design consistent.

Though the view from the front is nowhere near as spectacular as that of the movement, the is evident no expense was spared. Made of five pieces fused together (comprising each sub-dial and the main dial plate), the dial is white enamel, thick and glossy, and the hands are either solid gold or blued steel.

In the movement it is most obvious, but in every detail this watch reeks quality. In fact, even though this watch pictured is a prototype, an inordinate amount of effort was clearly lavished on completing it, especially on the movement decoration.

But all that craftsmanship, the thousands of hours of labour, begs the question: why?

Tony de Haas answered that question somewhat in an earlier interview. For me personally, the Grand Complication is a titanic, nearly unwearable timepiece with an absolutely ghastly price tag. And it contributes little to the body of watchmaking knowledge in terms of innovation, since it embodies all the traditions and crafts of watchmaking – as it was practised a hundred years ago.

But it is an exceptional and vastly impressive timepiece. If one thinks about the philosophy of Lange in its modern incarnation, the Grand Complication is actually the zenith of that watchmaking doctrine.

Practically all of the Lange wristwatches considered important and significant, the Datograph and the first Pour le Merite Tourbillon are the most obvious examples, are at heart nineteenth century watchmaking transplanted into a modern wristwatch. The Grand Complication is the grandest expression yet of that idealogy.

– SJX

FP Journe will mark the 30th anniversary of his first timepiece on October 18 with a special watch, part of which has been revealed in this tantalising teaser.

FP Journe completed his first timepiece, a pocket watch with tourbillon and remontoir, in 1983. The teaser for his 30th anniversary wristwatch depicts what is obviously a rose gold watch, with a white dial in what might be enamel. Both the hour and minute dials are off-centre, and are fitted with blued steel Breguet hands. And there appear to be some detail at both four and eight o’clock on the dial. A small button sits on the case at four o’clock, below the crown.  All will be revealed on October 18, 2013. – SJX

Long rumoured and now known to have been in development since 2009, the new cal. 1731 minute repeater movement inside the Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731 succeeds the the cal. 1755 repeater movement unveiled in 1992. At the time Vacheron Constantin was one of the few brands to boast an in-house repeater, and the new cal. 1731 is a worthy replacemen.

The cal. 1731 stands just 3.90 mm high, a tiny bit slimmer than the rival from Piaget which is the thinnest automatic minute repeater. Cased up, the VC repeater is only 8.09 mm thick.

As is de rigeur for high-end repeaters now, the cal. 1731 has a silent governor. This device regulates the striking of the repeater via two weighted wings which spread as the governer spins while the watch is chiming – occurring silently so as not to interfere with the acoustics of the repeater itself.

Care was taken in the case construction to optimise sound transmission. For instance, the rose gold case has no joints – it has a snap back – to maximise the resonance of the sound through the metal.

As with all mechanical VC timepieces, the Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731 is certified with the Geneva Seal. The movement is typical of current high-end VC calibres, displaying impeccable, traditional finishing alongside a movement design which is eminently modern.

From the front the watch is deceivingly simple, with the only notable feature being the subsidiary seconds at an unconventional eight o’clock.

The case is a modest 41 mm in diameter, and the movement has a useful 65 hour power reserve, equivalent to just under three days.  Retail is €270,000 before taxes, equivalent to about US$365,000. – SJX

At the opening of Watches&Wonders, Lange introduces two limited editions, the magnificent Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst as well as the Saxonia Outsized Date.

Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst

Lange has just unveiled two new models at Watches&Wonders, dubbed Asia’s mini-SIHH, which just opened today in Hong Kong. The highlight is the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst.

Using the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar as the base, the Handwerkskunst edition has the additional, elaborate detail characteristic of the Handwerkskunst series, like last year’s Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst for instance.

The dial is solid white gold, and decorated in tremblage and relief engraving. And the numerals of the signature Lange big date are hand-painted, a first for Lange.

The hand-painted date numerals

Detail of the elaborately engraved dial

Turn it over and the special decoration which distinguishes the Handwerkskunst edition is visible. Both the cocks for the tourbillon and intermediate wheel are relief engraved, as is the gold portion of the gold and platinum rotor. Additionally, the bridges of the movement are decorated with solarisation, instead of the striping found on the regular edition.

And the watch has one more detail to distinguish it: the Lange branding as well as case and serial numbers on the back are all hand-engraved.

Only 15 of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst will be made, with a retail price of €300,000 (~US$405,400), including 19% German VAT. That is a €30,000 premium over the regular Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar in platinum, shown below for comparison.

Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar in platinum

The movement of the regular version

Also presented for the first time at Watches&Wonders is the Saxonia Outsized Date in rose gold. This uses the cal. 921.4 Sax-O-Mat movement first used in the original Langematik with oversized date.

In addition to the large date, the other notable feature of the Sax-O-Mat is the zero-reset seconds – pull out the crown and the seconds hand jumps to 12 o’clock for precision time setting (hence the “O” in Sax-O-Mat).

Cal. L921.4 Sax-O-Mat

Limited to 25 pieces in rose gold, this is priced at €29,000 (~US$39,200), including 19% German VAT.

Both this and the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst will be available only at Lange boutiques.

– SJX

Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst

Cal. L082.1 of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst

Rebellion presented the T-1000 Gotham at Baselworld 2013. Taking some of its design cues from the Christopher Nolan Batman films, the watch boasts a 1000 hour, or 41 day, power reserve.

Designed by the prolific Eric Giroud, the Rebellion T-1000 Gotham gets its name from its design inspiration, the armoured Batmobile known as the Tumbler featured in Christopher Nolan’s trilogy of Batman films. The result is an brilliant watch, both visually and mechanically.

Inside is the REB T-1000 movement, originally developed by Laurent Besse (who was also responsible for the MB&F HM4 but now works for Corum after his firm went bust). This remarkable calibre has a 1000 hour power reserve, thanks to six barrels linked by tiny chains, and an inclined, double hairspring balance wheel.

Measuring an impressive 52.2 mm by 47.9 mm – this does not lack for wrist presence – the titanium case has twin sapphire crystals on the front.

 

On the top is time, displayed on two revolving drums with the hours on the left and minutes on the right. In between the two time drums is the vertical gear train (the six barrels are arranged in threes on either side of the movement, more on that later).

The vertical gear train in the centre

Below the time display sits the inclined balance wheel, fitted to a Straumann escapement with double hairsprings. It beats at a leisurely 18,000 bph. 

And on the left side of the case is the third sapphire crystal, under which sits three barrels. These are linked by a tiny chain, which allows them to be wound in parallel. On the other side of the watch, beneath the crown, are another three barrels, likewise linked with a chain.

The visible barrels and chain on the left flank of the case

The right side of the case with the crown and engraved logo

Winding is accomplished via the V-shaped lever on the back of the watch, which pops out when needed. When not in use the lever sits flush with the case back. Approximately 60 pulls on the lever are required to max out the 1000 hour power reserve. 

The winding lever locked in position

Though the lever is easy to use, and there is a mechanism to prevent overwinding, the lever action feels overly smooth; there is little feel that the watch is actually being wound.

The T-1000 Gotham is customisable in terms of case finish (black coated or natural finish titanium) as well as anodisiation of the movement bridge in black, gold, red, blue or purple. Pictured here is the black DLC case with a black anodised movement.

25 of the T-1000 Gotham will be made, with a retail price of SFr150,000 (~US$165,000). 

– SJX

Despite looking like yet another pedestrian flying tourbillon, the Arnold & Son UTTE (short for “ultra-thin tourbillon escapement”) is noteworthy. Its case stands 8.34 mm high, and the movement inside, the cal. A&S8200 developed by its sister company La Joux-Perret, is only 2.97 mm. That is no mean feat, considering the movement manages an 80 hour power reserve with twin barrels, just over three days. And even more so given the large 14 mm tourbillon cage.

The 2.97 mm high movement does not include the tourbillon cage, which is slightly convex. According to Arnold & Son, the decision to raise the cage was an aesthetic one, to give a better view of the tourbillon regulator. This adds depth and detail to an elegant, but plain, dial.

Turn the watch over and the movement is revealed. It is attractively decorated with a three-quarter plate in German silver, but because the plate is rhodium-plated, does not have the characteristic hue of maillechort.

The tourbillon bridge, on the other hand, is hand-engraved. This adds a welcome decorative touch. Though the movement is well finished and good looking, it is not striking.

Two versions are available, rose gold or palladium, with each limited to 50 pieces.  Price-wise the UTTE is reasonable: the rose gold retails for SFr68,420 (~US$75,300) while the palladium is SFr59,400 (~US$65,300). For an entry level tourbillon the UTTE delivers a more novel proposition than the vast majority of its competitors in the segment. – SJX

Created to mark the upcoming Sochi 2014 Winter Olympics, the Omega Sochi Petrograd is a remake of a 1915 tonneau wristwatch.

Based on a 1915 wristwatch made for a Russian client which is now in the Omega museum, the Sochi Petrograd limited edition has a yellow gold, tonneau-shaped case.  Along with the large Arabic numerals and wire lugs, the style of the watch recalls the timepieces popular in early twentieth century, pre-revolutionary Russia.  The silver dial, with its red minute markers and blued steel hands, is meant to evoke the colours of the Russian flag.

Inside is the automatic Omega cal. 2202 with Co-Axial escapement, though it is hidden behind the gold case back engraved with the Sochi 2014 logo.  Only 100 numbered pieces will be made, available only at Omega boutiques. In Singapore the retail price is S$24,050 (~US$19,250), including 7% tax. – SJX

Speake-Marin’s Spirit Mk II is now available with a DLC coated case, expanding the brand’s entry level offering of military-inspired timepieces.

Originally only available with a steel case (though a handful in rose gold were made), the Spirit Mk II now has the option of a diamond-like carbon (DLC) coated steel case.  Design and specs are identical to the original Spirit Mk II, but the DLC version looks and feels more military, with the raised Luminova numerals made even more striking against the dark case. First used on the limited edition Pioneer Spirit, Speake-Marin’s first sporty wristwatch, the dial has thick, moulded SuperLuminova indices for the hours and minutes. Though not immediately obvious, this detail gives the dial a strong and distinctive appearance.

The 42 mm case has a sandblasted, frosted finish, over which the black DLC coating is applied. Inside is the Technotime TT738 automatic movement with a useful five day power reserve.

The Spirit Mk II DLC is part of the regular collection and is not a limited edition. It will be available at Speake-Marin retailers. The retail price is SFr6900 before taxes, or about US$7600. – SJX

C3H5N3O9, otherwise known as nitroglycerin, a joint venture of MB&F and Urwerk, has just presented their second watch, the Experiment ZR012 Black.

Last year MB&F and Urwerk took the covers off the ZR012, made under the label C3H5N3O9, which is the chemical formula for nitroglycerin. The watch was the result of MB&F taking care of the aesthetics (specifically, Eric Giroud penned the design) and Urwerk the movement. This year sees the launch of the second installment in the series, the ZR012 in black PVD coated zirconium. Unusually, the ZR012 was a striking timepiece sold exclusively online. But for their second watch, the partners have notably decided to go the traditional route – the ZR012 in black is available only at Singapore retailer The Hour Glass.

The specs remain exactly the same as the first ZR012. As before, the time display is inspired by a Wankel engine, and the zirconium case measures 55 mm by 44 mm.

12 pieces will be made, with a retail price of S$229,200 including 7% tax (~US$184,000), available through The Hour Glass. – SJX

For its inaugural sale on Mainland China on 26 September, Christie’s has assembled a small but significant and entirely unique range of wristwatches, including a quartet of special Patek Philippe grand complications, and amongst them one-of-a-kind versions of the ref. 3939 as well as ref. 5016.

Unique Patek Philippe ref. 3974R

A few months ago Christie’s became the first Western auction house to secure the license to operate independently on the Chinese mainland. Its first auction in China will take place in Shanghai next week, with a mixture of paintings, wine and watches. A dozen watches will go under the hammer, including several unique Patek Philippes and a rare Cartier Crash with a burgundy dial. Though the Patek watches on offer include enamelled pocket watches and a cloisonne dial ref. 2481, the highlight of the sale is undoubtedly the four grand complications – comprising the refs. 3939, 3974, 5004 and 5016 – with matching, ruby-set silver dials and pink gold cases, presumably from the same owner. The first is the ref. 5004R split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar, with this particular specimen being only the second known piece with the ruby dial. CNY2,200,000 to CNY3,400,000 (~US$363,113 to US$561,174) is the estimate.

Ref 5004R

Next is the ref. 3974R minute repeater with perpetual calendar. This ruby dial was fitted by Patek subsequent to purchase, and only 20 pink gold refs. 3974 are believed to have been made. This is estimated to sell for CNY2,800,000 to CNY4,200,000 (~US$462,143 to US$693,215).

Ref. 3974R

The third watch is the classic ref. 3939R minute repeater with tourbillon. Circa 2008, this is the only known ref. 3939 with a ruby index dial. It will probably set the buyer back CNY2,500,000 to CNY3,800,000 (~US$412,628 to US$627,195).

Ref. 3939R

And rounding up the four is the ref. 5016R. This too is the only known example of the model reference with a ruby dial. The estimate is CNY3,200,000 to CNY5,000,000 (~US$528,164 to US$825,256).

Ref. 5016R

Also in the sale is a unique Patek ref. 5159G with an engraved case, dial and buckle, customised at the owner’s request by Patek. The only known example of an engraved ref. 5159, this is believed to have been the prototype for the later, engraved ref. 5160. Unlike the ref. 5160, this ref. 5159 has a faint blued finished on the engraved parts and the engraved motif is different from that of the ref. 5160. CNY620,000 to CNY950,000 (~US$102,332 to US$156,799) is the estimate.

Ref. 5159G

Another notable watch from the sale is the platinum Cartier Crash with a burgundy dial, estimated at CNY190,000 to CNY320,000 (~US$31,360 to US$52,816). Platinum is the rarest metal for this signature Cartier wristwatch, and the dial is a special order (the typical colour is silver).

The auction will take place on 26 September 2013 and full sale information can be had from Christie’s. – SJX