IWC Top Gun  Miramar Pilot’s Chronograph

As an SIHH 2012 preview, IWC has just unveiled the new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Miramar, named after the former location of the US Navy Fighter Weapons School (aka TOPGUN).

The 46 mm case is dark grey ceramic – in the photos it seems to have a glossy finish – with a dial that has faux patina and a green nylon strap. Inside is the IWC cal. 89365 flyback movement, similar to that in the Portuguese Yacht Club. 

Alongside the chronograph, the Top Gun Miramar range will also have a 48 mm Big Pilot with a similar design. (To clear up some confusion the Miramar chronograph is 46 mm and the Mirarmar Big Pilot is 48 mm.)  Based on the stock photo, I am not a fan of the new Top Gun Miramar. It looks derivative, and this vintage military look is starting to get old (no pun intended). At the same time the Miramar chronograph reminds me of the Panerai PAM300 Mare Nostrum re-edition. That being said, I can see this selling well as a mass luxury product. Since 2012 is the year of the Pilot’s Watch, just as the Portofino was the focus of 2011, IWC has also outlined the changes to the rest of the Pilot’s Watch collection. Six new models will be launched, while the others are improved (or not), but no other images have been released. The rest of the Pilot’s Watches have been revamped as well. The classic Top Gun range now has a Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar as well as a Big Pilot. 

On the other hand, the Spitfire sees the addition of the new Spitfire Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month in red gold. It uses the perpetual calendar movement with oversized digital display, first used in the Da Vinci. And the Spitfire chronograph now uses the IWC cal. 89365 instead of the 7750.  

And the classic pilot watches now all have the three-numeral date window, except for the Big Pilot. The other models have grown larger: the new Mark XVII is 41 mm (compare that to the dimunitive Mark XI), while the new Doppelchronograph is 46 mm and the Pilot’s Chronograph is 43 mm. And a new addition to the range is the Pilot’s Watch Worldtimer. All will be revealed in three weeks at SIHH 2012. – SJX

The back of the Top Gun Miramar Pilot’s Chronograph

First seen in steel earlier this year, the latest version of the Urwerk UR-110 Torpedo is the UR-110 ZrN. This is a steel UR-110 PVD coated with zirconium nitride, a hard ceramic coating that has a pale gold colour.

The contrast of the pale gold top late with the black coated titanium base somehow makes the watch seem slimmer than the steel UR-110.

And the colour gives this a tamer look than the other 2011 novelty, the menacing looking UR-1001 Zeit Device pocket watch.

The texture of the zirconium nitride coating is very interesting in detail. Though it looks smooth and refined from afar, up close the coating has a coarse grain that resembles stone.

Although very attractive, the UR-110 ZrN is a significant premium, almost 50%, over the steel UR-110. That is a challenging price. 12 pieces of the UR-110 ZrN will be made, with the serial number indicated by the red hour numeral. So for example watch number 01/12 will have a red “1” hour numeral, as pictured below. – SJX

Montblanc Villeret Pulsographe

The headline on Bloomberg reads “Montblanc Watches Set to Outsell Pens“. That is news because Montblanc is not historically a watchmaker, it first made watches in 1997 or 1998.  The Bloomberg article then goes on to explain why and how Montblanc expanded beyond pens which account for just below half of revenue, to watches and everything else. Its watch range now includes the haute horlogerie Villeret 1858 range, thanks to Richemont’s acquisition of Minerva. 

The reason for this diversification is that pen sales are growing way slower than watch sales, primarily because pens are rarely used while watches are on show all the time. 

Watches now make up about 20% of Montblanc’s approximately EUR700 million in revenue.

– SJX

The idea for the Eichi was first put forward by Osamu Takahashi, manager of Seiko Epson’s Micro Artist Studio. Where Grand Seiko is a high-quality everyday watch, the products of the Micro Artist Studio, like the Credor Sonnerie of 2006 and the repeater of 2011, are extraordinary haute horlogerie, the very best quality products that Seiko can produce, at any price. Naturally that means the watches are extraordinary.

Takahashi-san wanted to create an exceptionally high-quality watch, an “heirloom” that can be “worn for generations”, in his words. He was inspired by the Seiko Lord Marvel, a Seiko wristwatch from the sixties that was the brand’s premium product at the time. His Lord Marvel still runs well, decades later. That is why the platinum case of the Eichi is just 35 mm in diameter, just like the Lord Marvel.

Osamu Takahashi

On its face the Eichi is a disarmingly simple watch. The dial is clean and shows only the time, as well as a simple power reserve. And at certain angles the numerals 2, 4 and 7 are visible. That is a signature design of the Credor line, an obvious reference to 24 hours and seven days a week.

Seiko Credor Eichi

A pure, fragile white is the best description of the dial. It is porcelain by Noritake, the maker of fine bone china that supplies Japan’s imperial household. In contrast to the whiteness of the dial are the hand-painted indices and text, and the blued steel hands. The sheer white of the dial is a nod to the snow that blankets Shiojiri, where the Seiko Epson factory is located. There is also a tiny porcelain insert on the crown with the Credor logo.

But what is truly exceptional about the Eichi is the 7R08 calibre. The level of finishing on the watch is outstanding.

(Note the photos show a prototype stored in the Micro Artist Studio so it is not as clean as an actual production piece.)

The flower motif on the barrel is the bellflower, which is the symbol of Shiojiri

Kenji Shiohara from the Micro Artist Studio sought out Philippe Dufour for advice on watch finishing when the Spring Drive Sonnerie was in development. And in typical Japanese fashion they took the advice and went even further. In a conversation with Mr Dufour a year ago, he expressed respect for Seiko’s fanatical dedication to quality.

Kenji Shiohara, head watchmaker of the Micro Artist Studio, and master watchmaker Yoshifusa Nakazawa

The Micro Artist Studio at Seiko Epson in Shiojiri; the entrance is literally a door under the stairs

Everything in the movement is finished to a near obsessive level. Even the interior of the barrel is polished to a mirror finish to minimise friction and wear, something I have never come across, even in other ultra-high end watches.

A photo from Seiko showing the mirror finished barrel interior

The dedication to finishing is illustrated by the fact that when the watchmakers from the Micro Artist Studio returned from visiting Mr Dufour, they brought back branches of the gentian tree, a plant found in Alpine regions around the world, which grows near Le Sentier. They did that so that they could replicate the wonderful polished finish on the bevels of the untreated German silver bridges. As can be seen from the photos there is already some patina on the bridges.

Hence for several years, the final polish of the anglage of watches made at the Micro Artist Studio was done with the exact same wood Mr Dufour uses for his Simplicity. But after searching all over Japan a similar gentian plant was found in Hokkaido, not too long ago. So the watchmakers are proud to say their timepieces are now entirely Japanese.

The finishing of the Eichi is technically comparable to Philippe Dufour in my humble opinion. It might even be more perfect technically (look at the mirror finished barrel interior). But it lacks some of the warmth and charm of Dufour, the Eichi movement seems a bit colder. My opinion, however, is subjective. Objectively speaking the movement finishing is impeccable.

Despite its eminently traditional high horology finishing, the Eichi is a Spring Drive movement. The Spring Drive is essentially a mechanical movement mainspring and gear train that is regulated by a flywheel instead of balance. The revolutions of the flywheel in turn are regulated by an electromagnet and integrated circuit with a quartz oscillator. The IC and electromagnet are powered by a tiny capacitor that gets it charge from the rotor. This means that the Spring Drive has far superior timekeeping than a pure mechanical, with a maximum deviation of 15 seconds a month.

In addition the movement has a clever torque return system comprising a ratchet wheel beneath the barrel that “recycles” excess torque generated by the mainspring. This extra power is used to rewind the mainspring to extend the power reserve.

Although the Eichi includes much innovative technology, what makes it truly special is its finishing. There are few other watches that are made with an almost outrageous emphasis on finishing, and none from any of the big brands.

The Eichi retailed for about US$74,000, a significant sum. But that is comparable to its few peers, and considering the incredible craftsmanship it is reasonable. That is a moot point anyway since production has ended and all pieces have either gone to end customers or retailers.

Already a successor is in the works according to Seiko and that will be something astonishing as well. Enjoy the rest of the photos below.

– SJX

This is a great book covering 12 independent watchmakers, and one of those profiled is Kenji Shiohara of Seiko’s Micro Artist Studio.

Europa Star just published an interesting article covering Tissot’s new logistics centre in Le Locle. Tissot is likely the biggest brand by output in Switzerland, with a production of over three million watches last year and more than four million in 2011. The new high tech warehouse can accommodate five to six million watches per year.

Machines and production on an enormous scale is one of the little discussed secrets of the Swiss watch industry so this article is an unusual peek at the reality at most of the big brands.

– SJX



IWC Mark XI Photo by kkmark on MWR



Someone over at MWR, the forum where military watch fanatics congregate, recently posted the remarkable story of how he managed to track down the original owner of a 1952 IWC Mark XI (which happens to be in beautiful condition). As it happens the pilot who was originally issued the Mark XI was based in Singapore for a time. For milwatch fans, or anyone who appreciates history, this is a must read.

– SJX

Lange just replaced the legendary Datograph with the Datograph Up and Down to be unveiled at SIHH 2012. So here are some photos of the original Datograph, especially of the magnificent calibre L951.1 inside.

Obviously designed to be beautiful to behold, the Datograph movement is so vivid and richly coloured, with wonderful details scattered throughout, it is like a miniature city. (On that topic, the Double Split isn’t too shabby either.)

I am glad Lange updated the Datograph, I am of the opinion it has been in production too long.

From a brand equity perspective, 12 years is too long for a luxury watch to be in production, unchanged, especially in today’s climate of quick product cycles.

But nevertheless the original Datograph remains a seminal watch that was remarkable in its time.

Enjoy the photos!

– SJX

Patek Philippe white gold cushion-shaped monopusher chronograph, c.1928

It remains to be seen if this is the peak, but the global watch market did well in 2011. Christie’s watch auction sales totalled US$116.3 million in 2010, up 28% from 2010. This is the first time any auction house has exceed US$100 million (all figures include buyer’s premium).

The ten most valuable lots were dominated by Patek Philippe naturally. Many of the usual suspects are on the lists, like the refs. 3448, 3449, 1518, 2499 and so on. Also on the list at US$1.27 million is a unique, platinum case tourbillon pocket watch made for uber-collector Henry Graves Jr. Notably Christie’s sold this very same tourbillon pocket watch for a mere US$706,908 in 2008. So it’s not surprising the most expensive wristwatch was a cushion-shaped, white gold Patek monopusher chronograph that hammered for US$3.64 million (shown at right). Of course auction results are only just that – the sale price. The identities of the bidders is rarely revealed publicly. But with all the watch companies filling up their museums with ostensible treasures, one wonders. However, the top lot was a pair of “singing bird pistols” attributed to Rochat brothers, circa 1820, which went for US$5.84 million. Interestingly the most valuable pocket watch sold in 2011 was a Vacheron Constantin grande et petite sonnerie pocket watch with chronograph that went for US$1.09 million.

Vacheron Constantin grande et petite sonnerie pocket watch with chronograph, c. 1918



Patek Phillipe tourbillon pocket watch in platinum, made for Henry Graves Jr. in 1932

 Antiquorum used to be tops in watch auctions but since the sale and subsequent turmoil at the auction house, Christie’s has taken the lead. (The founder of Antiquorum, Osvaldo Patrizzi, has an remarkable blog clearly intended to settle some scores though it hasn’t been updated in some months.) That being said, the watch business is still small compared to everything else. For the first half of 2011 Christie’s did US$3.2 billion in auction and private sales so watches are just a small part of that. All the more room for growth then… – SJX 

Pair of singing bird pistols attributed to Freres Rochat, circa 1820



I predict pocket watches are in the early stages of making a comeback. Not because they are practical or useful, but because they are display objects, impressive items that can sit grandly on a desk. Independents have already caught on, Richard Mille and Urwerk come to mind, but at SIHH 2012 Cartier will unveil the Grand Complication Skeleton pocket watch, complete with a rock crystal and obsidian stand. Cartier is one of the first established brands to make a major pocket watch recently, but it’s won’t be the last.

More on the Cartier pocket watch on the forum I moderate.

– SJX

Maximilian Büsser recently unveiled the pair of Horological Machine No. 4, Razzle Dazzle and Double Trouble. This pair of new HM4 Thunderbolts comes just weeks after the surprisingly Legacy Machine 1, confirming Max’s skill in scheduling new releases. 

The MB&F HM4 Double Trouble

Both the Double Trouble and Razzle Dazzle are variants of the HM4. The case remains titanium but has individually applied titanium across the fuselage.

But the highlights are the painted figures on the case, inspired by the nose art of military aircraft. Painted by Isabelle Villa, the paintings are protected by clear lacquer but additionally the case has actually been machined out so the painting is flush with the surface.

To complete the military look the strap is made from leather requisitioned from vintage Swiss military gear – known as “ammo” straps – and the dials of the HM4 have faux patina. Of course all of that has been shrewdly used by a particular brand to great effect.

Hand applied titanium rivets

Parchment Luminova and a faux aged dial

The rivets and nose art are absolutely perfect for the HM4. There is no doubt about that. But this decoration makes the HM4 seem more like a toy than it already is. But then again that’s the point of such a watch. Both the Razzle Dazzle and Double Trouble are each a limited edition of eight pieces. And there are 16 people in the world who will want this on their wrist. This is the third variant of the HM4, the second being the piece unique HM4 for Only Watch 2011. – SJX

The HM4 Razzle Dazzle

The HM4 Double Trouble