Technical

Explaining the Ancient Technique of Gold Filigree

An ancient technique several millennia old, filigree makes its debut in watchmaking with the Ronde Louis Cartier XL Filigree Panthers, with the dial made up of intricately worked gold and platinum wires that form a panther motif. 

Hands-On with the First Ever Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch with a Leap Year Indicator

Thirty years passed between the first perpetual calendar wristwatch, and the first one with a leap year indicator, made by Audemars Piguet in 1955. Here's a look at one double-signed example of the Audemars Piguet ref. 5516.

Explaining How Tudor’s Fabric NATO Straps Are Made (with Video)

Inspired by the NATO strap and a key element of Tudor's emblematic Heritage watches, the fabric bands offered with Tudor's watches are not just a colourful accessory, but the products of traditional weaving techniques on Jacquard loom operated by hand.

Monday Lessons: Explaining the Ups and Downs of Constant Force Mechanisms in Mechanical Movements

The pursuit of constant force in a mechanical movement is as old as watchmaking, with many old solutions like the chain and fusee having been turned into new expressions of artisanal skill. But at the cutting edge true constant force escapements have emerged thanks to new materials.

Explaining the Long and Short of Ever Lengthening Power Reserves

Slowly but surely, mechanical timepieces have seen their power reserves lengthen, especially in the last decade. Once considered a special feature but now increasingly common, longer autonomy is a simple but exceptionally convenient feature.

EXPLAINED: Restoring a 1950s Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 6074

A well worn and treasured Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 6074 is brought back to life by Henrik Korpela, principal of independent Swiss watchmaking school KHWCC. Korpela himself explains the process of restoring the family heirloom, all the while maintaining its character, in enlightening detail.

Zenith’s History In Pilot’s Watches Explained In Five Timepieces

From the A. Cairelli chronographs of the sixties to the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 equipped with the 5011 K movement, Zenith has a strong claim to being of the most key manufacturers of aviator's timepieces. Here I explain Zenith's history in pilot's instruments with five significant timekeepers.

Explaining The First Ever Automatic Tourbillon Wristwatch, Invented By Audemars Piguet

Long a master of complicated timepieces, Audemars Piguet played a significant role in the development of the wristwatch tourbillon, having created the first ever self-winding tourbillon wristwatch, that eventually evolved into the distinctive Renaud & Papi tourbillon.

EXPLAINED: How To Blue Steel Screws The Traditional Way – With A Flame And Lots Of Patience

Steel screws used in watch movements are often blue. Traditionally this is done by heating the screws, hardening them and also giving them an attractive blue colour, a process Henrik Korpela explains in this in-depth article.

EXPLAINED: The Fine Art Of Black Polishing AKA Spéculaire

Black polishing, also known as spéculaire finishing, is employed to finish steel parts in a watch movement to create a mirror-like surface. Used for steel screws, levers and bridges, true black polishing is done by hand and only found in the best timepieces. Henrik Korpela explains the technique here.


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