Moritz Grossmann Introduces the Atum Skeleton

A collaboration with Christophe Schaffo, the Atum Skelett is the watchmaker's very first open-worked timepiece.
Moritz Grossmann Atum Skeleton 1

Moritz Grossmann recruited Swiss independent watchmaker Christophe Schaffo to give its Atum wristwatch an ornate facelift, starkly contrasted with the simplified, entry-level Atum introduced in 2016. Ordinarily a somewhat serious looking timepiece, the Atum Skelett has been completely open worked, with nary a dial over the movement.

The calibre 100.5 inside has been skeletonised and then covered with elaborate hand-engraving on the bridges, all the way down to the pallet fork bridge beneath the balance wheel. Schaffo is the son of Kurt Schaffo, an independent watchmaker who specialises in skeleton timepieces who has done work for brands like Corum, Zenith and Ulysse Nardin.

Moritz Grossmann Atum Skeleton 3

Mechanically the movement remains identical to the standard version, hand-wound and boasting a clever stop-seconds mechanism for precise time-setting. And it’s impressively constructed, being inspired by vintage Grossmann pocket watch. The bridges are German silver, complete with chatons for the jewels, while the balance is an adjustable mass, in-house creation fitted to an overcoil hairspring. (For a more detailed explanation of the Grossmann calibre, check out our in-depth look at the Benu Power Reserve.)

Moritz Grossmann Atum Skeleton 4

Moritz Grossmann Atum Skeleton 2

Moritz Grossmann Atum Skeleton 5

Available in rose or white gold, the Atum Skelett is 41mm in diameter like the standard model.

Price and availability 

The Atum Skelett is available from authorised retailers and priced €87,100.


 

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Jaquet Droz Marks the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Rooster

A quartet of intricately decorated Petite Heure Minute wristwatches for the Year of the Rooster.
Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Rooster 6

Each year of the Chinese zodiac is represented by an animal – there are 12 animal symbols in total – and 2017 is the turn of the Rooster. For the occasion Jaquet Droz has announced four fowl-themed Petite Heure Minute limited editions from the Ateliers d’Arts collection, which is all about hand-decorated dials. All four are equipped with the calibre 2653.Si, an automatic featuring a silicon hairspring and pallet fork.


Characterised by a reduced, off-centre dial for the hours and minutes – petite heure minute translates as “small hour minute” – the watches have ample blank space on the dial as a canvas for the artisanal decoration. The entry-level watches are a matched pair for men and women, both featuring a vitreous enamel dial with a hand-painted rooster surrounded by peonies.

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Rooster 2

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Rooster 1

Both are 18k red gold, and the men’s watch is 39mm in diameter, while the ladies’ model is 35mm and set with diamonds on the bezel and lugs. Each is limited to 88 pieces, with a 18k red gold rotor open-worked and engraved in the form of a rooster.

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Rooster 7


Also in red gold but 41mm in diameter, the Petite Heure Minute Relief Rooster boasts more extravagant materials. Limited to 28 pieces, the dial is jade with inlaid flowers and mountains in engraved mother of pearl, and an 18k red gold rooster applied to the dial base. The sub-dial for the time is glossy black onyx. And on the rear the hand-engraved rotor is inlaid with yet more jade.

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Rooster 5

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Rooster 8


The top of the line model is the Petite Heure Minute Relief Rooster in 18k white gold. Also 41mm in diameter, the case is set with diamonds on the bezel and lugs. The dial is also jade and engraved mother of pearl, but the 18k white gold rooster on the dial is not only hand-engraved, but also painted in vivid colours.

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Rooster 4

Again the rooster motif is repeated on the rear, with an 18k white gold rotor featuring an engraved rooster and jade inlay.

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Rooster 3

Price and availability 

The Year of the Rooster limited editions will be available starting January 2017. Prices below are in Swiss francs and Singapore dollars.

Petite Heure Minute Rooster 35mm (ref. J005003222) – SFr35,300 or S$59,000
Petite Heure Minute Rooster 39mm (ref. J005013216) – SFr28,800 or S$49,000
Petite Heure Minute Relief Rooster, 28 pieces (ref. J005023282) – SFr65,000 or S$109,000
Petite Heure Minute Relief Rooster, eight pieces (ref. J005024282) – SFr75,800 or S$127,000


 

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